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Life on Mars 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: someone in the 90s?
Page Views: 628
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Reaching over the final bulge. The gear at Lenny's...

Description 

This route climbs the corner and crack system about 15' left of Killing In The Name. Start below the shelf on the left side of Wake Up Wall, at a big left-facing corner.

Climb 30' up the easy corner to a bolt, and stem up to a big shelf. Clip the second bolt and climb the steep inset corner above. The crux is at the 4th bolt. Fun moves in the upper corner. [Eds. the bolts may have been removed.]


Protection 

Once bolted, now returned to its FA condition. Bring gear. ~80'.



Photos of Life on Mars Slideshow Add Photo
Life on Mars.  The crux is in the upper corner moving past the fourth bolt. <br /> <br />Note: the bolts have been removed from this route.
BETA PHOTO: Life on Mars. The crux is in the upper corner mov...
Peter Dillon working into the narrow inset corners.
Peter Dillon working into the narrow inset corners...
Placing a piece after the last hard move.
Placing a piece after the last hard move.
Comments on Life on Mars Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2004

AC - have you climbed the route? If not, please refrain from evaluating routes you haven't done. If so, please tell us what trad gear you used to protect the pitch and which bolts aren't necessary.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 25, 2004

AC is right--this IS a bolted trad route. Climbed it today trad and had excellent gear except at the 4th bolt, where the gear was merely pretty good, but with excellent gear two feet lower. The gear is all placed from good stances except for the last piece at the 5th bolt.

There are 5 bolts, all unnecessary:Bolt 1: Microcam just below the bolt with bigger gear further down. If you care--it's about 5.2 here. Bolt 2: 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot at your feet on the ledge for optional backup. Excellent 0.75 Camalot at the base of the upper corner. This is higher than the bolt but about one foot further left.Bolt 3: From the stance out right place another excellent cam in the corner. I used a #2 Offset Friend, but another 0.75 Camalot would work. This is a bit below bolt 3. From a good stem, place an excellent green Alien a bit above bolt 3.Bolt 4: After stepping left, place a pretty good medium brass in the corner and a pretty good #00 TCU or equivalent to the right of the bolt. These pieces are about a foot below the bolt.Bolt 5: From the good hold above the bulge you can get comfy with your butt in the corner. Place an excellent red Alien, and make the last couple of easier moves to the anchors.

By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2004

I climbed this route back in the early nineties on trad year and found the pro to be fine. I would give this route one star if the bolts were removed from it.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 17, 2004

I believe Vaino removed the bolts. I sure hope he removed the anchors also to return the climb to its [pristine] state. Enjoy.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2004

I guess this is the sort of thing that is going to happen when the FA info is not perfectly cataloged (it never is nor will it ever be) and people bolt cracks. Glad to hear that the bolts were removed by the bolting party. Maybe that's the best way to keep the peace once a mistake was made. Better yet, avoid the mistakes.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2005

Returned to this last week. There is virtually no sign of the bolts. Vaino (or whoever) did a great job removing them. The crux now seems to be hanging out below the final bulge getting the last few pieces of gear. The anchor bolts, if they existed in the first place (I don't remember), are no longer there. Above the crux angle right, either low or high, to the next climb's anchors, or continue to the top.

By Brian Sorden
Oct 11, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

As long as we're spewing, I also lead this free in 1999. Never considered it worth any mention and definitely not worth a single bolt.