Life O' Riley 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Greg Opland, Sandy Draus, Felicia Terry, Fred AmRhein, et. al., May 2004 |
| Season: | Late Spring to Fall |
| Submitted By: | Anthony Stout on Feb 9, 2006 |
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Putting his hand in the paw of the dog on "Life O'...
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Life O' Riley is on the right-facing wall on the left side of the Sleeping Beauty Area. It is the leftmost route at the area. It's named after a puppy, and for a formation of huecos near the bottom of the route that resemble a paw print. Clip the first bolt fairly high on the route. The rubble at the bottom of the route as you head toward the first clip gives one reason to think (be careful!). Climb up and out the left side of a small alcove and up lower angle rock, which then steepens to vertical on the way to the top. The crux is at the top of this route, and the rest of the climbing heades up large, less than vertical terrain.
Protection 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor/rap.
| Comments on Life O' Riley |
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By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 28, 2008
| This seems like mostly 5.7 climbing until the final moves which are a fair bit above the last (fourth) bolt and leave the leader with the feeling he/she could hit the ledge below the fourth bolt in the event of a fall. A fifth protection bolt would have been really nice to protect the final, crux moves to the anchor. |
By Brian Boyd Sep 25, 2008
| There's a large, loose block just below the second bolt that we marked with an 'x'. I also had a phonebook-sized chunk come off higher up. SO, be careful on this route. |
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