Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sleeping Beauty Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burly Wench, The 
Cheshire Cat 
Glass Coffin 
Heather 
Life O' Riley 
Poison Apple 
Prince Valiant 
Sea Hag 
Sleeping Beauty 
Tarred and Feathered 
Witch's Promise 

Life O' Riley 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Opland, Sandy Draus, Felicia Terry, Fred AmRhein, et. al., May 2004
Season: Late Spring to Fall
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 9, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Putting his hand in the paw of the dog on "Life O'...
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Life O' Riley is on the right-facing wall on the left side of the Sleeping Beauty Area. It is the leftmost route at the area. It's named after a puppy, and for a formation of huecos near the bottom of the route that resemble a paw print.

Clip the first bolt fairly high on the route. The rubble at the bottom of the route as you head toward the first clip gives one reason to think (be careful!). Climb up and out the left side of a small alcove and up lower angle rock, which then steepens to vertical on the way to the top.

The crux is at the top of this route, and the rest of the climbing heades up large, less than vertical terrain.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor/rap.



Comments on Life O' Riley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 28, 2008

This seems like mostly 5.7 climbing until the final moves which are a fair bit above the last (fourth) bolt and leave the leader with the feeling he/she could hit the ledge below the fourth bolt in the event of a fall. A fifth protection bolt would have been really nice to protect the final, crux moves to the anchor.

By Brian Boyd
Administrator
Sep 25, 2008

There's a large, loose block just below the second bolt that we marked with an 'x'. I also had a phonebook-sized chunk come off higher up. SO, be careful on this route.