Lies and Propaganda 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Armstrong, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Feb 26, 2007 |
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Mike Garrity on Lies and Propaganda, photo by Arth...
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Description Lies and Propaganda is deservedly one of the most popular 5.9s at Rumney. In late 2005, a large flake fell off the bottom of the route that upped the difficulty level a bit. The initial moves to the second bolt are steep and pumpy, with the crux coming right after the second bolt. The climbing eases a bit in the middle, and then finishes through a fun, juggy overhang. After pulling through the overhang, work around to the right and climb the final short slab to the anchors. Fun climb, and worth the wait.
Location Located on a prominent arête just right of Rose Garden and the No Money Down area. Just look for the longest line at the Meadows, get in line, and you’ll eventually end up below L & P.
Protection 5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
James placing the first draw on Lies and Propagand...
| James cruising up Lies and Propaganda
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| Comments on Lies and Propaganda |
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By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 26, 2007 rating: 5.9
| The huge flake was deliberately pried off. It was basically just sitting there and if someone ended up pulling it off, it would have created serious mayhem. Now, it serves as a perfect belay/hang-out seat at the base. |
By Kayte Knower Mar 3, 2007
| This was my first ever project at Rumney. I was so proud to top out onto that slab. It's still one of my favorites. |
By Tom Bowker From: somewhere in the USA Nov 16, 2008
| Tom Armstrong did this climb ground up, onsight. 1st two bolts drilled from a hook. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.9
| I got on this route for the first time this summer and was severely saddened I had not been on it before the bottom flows beautifully and the overhang at the top is just good old fashioned fun. |
By Alyson Sewell From: Plymouth, NH Mar 25, 2010
| I absolutely loved this route! I got on it for the first time today and led it! I did have one hang because the top part before the anchors is a bit tricky to get up and over the bulge, you just need to find the holds that work for you... they are there! 5 out of 4 stars for me! |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH Mar 26, 2010
| one of my first rumney leads, good job. |
By Brendan Blanchard From: Strafford, NH Jun 1, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Gave this a try today, falling mid-crux with slack makes for an interesting situation. I had the privilege of waving to my belayer as he flew past me...good pumpy start though. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Apr 4, 2012 rating: 5.9
| I felt that getting to the first bolt was the most fun part of this climb. The crux was ok, but was not that enjoyable for me. Seems like a good climb to start working the stamina of a 5.9 leader, as the crux sequence is draining at the grade, not too long, but also not just 1 move either. |
By Jcomeau From: Hopkinton, MA Sep 28, 2012
| I climbed this one a while ago. No falls, a few hangs as I was pumped at the end of the day. The most memorbale for me was rocking onto the slab at the top. And I think it was snowing too. |
By Mike Mastanduno Jun 10, 2013
| Draws seeking climber: We were forgotten after your last route of the day. You went to the pub but left us at the base. PM a description and I'll return them to you. |
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