Lieback Rock Lieback 5.11-
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BETA PHOTO: Lieback
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The namesake of Lieback Rock. Lieback up a right facing rail where the rock splits from pink to grey. Get up to a finger pocket undercling. Follow undercling flake around right and then finish up the seam to the top. Classic. Feels more like an actual trad route than a boulder since it is so long and varied. Some start on the right side of the rail for added difficulty.
Location Center to rigt side of Lieback Rock.
Protection Pad and somebody to move it. Crux is start up to undercling so a pad at the start only is helpful.
BETA PHOTO: Nice layback.
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| Comments on Lieback Rock Lieback |
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By Tavis Ricksecker From: Bishop, ca Jul 9, 2007 rating: 5.11-
| I heard long ago that the undercling/pocket thing is actually a manufactured hold: someone in the 70's smashed it out of the flake with a hammer. Its possible to complete the problem without using it. For maximum style points, step back left above the lip of the overhang and top out on slab. |
By James Geddes From: Esco, CA May 23, 2009
| Why is this marked a 'trad' route? |
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Dec 28, 2009
| "May 23, 2009 Why is this marked a 'trad' route?" I wanted to give it a YDS rating as all the Santee guides to date have. That was the only way. |
By TBONE Jan 1, 2012
| more ridiculous examples of 5th class ratings for boulder problems. just because someone did this crap in the past does not mean it's a good idea to keep doing it. fun problem. V3 |
By HarrisonE Jan 10, 2012
| I was messing around on the traverse yesterday at sunset and right after the sun had set about 100 bats flew out of that crack. It scared the shit out of me because I just had my hands in the crack for the start of the traverse. |
By Trad Nanny Jul 12, 2012
| This thing is pretty polished nowadays. Tough to feel solid. |
By sdrockstar81 From: el cajon, CA Sep 13, 2012 rating: 5.10c
| Super classic santee climb!~!! Great fun and tough till u get the beta. Finish out above the undercling for ultimate reward! Super polished nowdays... Actually all of " mudball" is pretty classic and polished. |
By A Terray From: San Diego, CA Mar 19, 2013
| V2...need to convert these to V-grades |
By Logan Swartz Apr 9, 2013
| Yes please put V scale for all boulder routes. I know old books have YDS but we can evolve from that, we are using an online climbing website on the internet. Old books YDS, MP Vscale V2 |
By nds From: Oceanside, Ca Apr 10, 2013 rating: 5.11b/c
| Funny the conversation and varied opinions on the grade of this climb. One of the more enjoyable lines at Santee in my opinion and placed in any other bouldering area would be in the solid v2 to v3 range. Yet it's in polished old school Santee so it gets 11a which is equivalent to v1. Take it for what it is, a decent boulder problem that requires a little technique and a little power. Climb it and move on to better stuff. |
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