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Lieback Rock
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Crack 
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Lieback Rock Dyno T 
Lieback Rock Lieback T 
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Lieback Rock Lieback 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,041
Submitted By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007  with updates from Logan Swartz

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

The namesake of Lieback Rock.

Lieback up a right facing rail where the rock splits from pink to grey. Get up to a finger pocket undercling. Follow undercling flake around right and then finish up the seam to the top.

Classic. Feels more like an actual trad route than a boulder since it is so long and varied. Some start on the right side of the rail for added difficulty.

Location 

Center to rigt side of Lieback Rock.

Protection 

Pad and somebody to move it. Crux is start up to undercling so a pad at the start only is helpful.


Photos of Lieback Rock Lieback Slideshow Add Photo
Lieback
BETA PHOTO: Lieback
Nice layback.
BETA PHOTO: Nice layback.

Comments on Lieback Rock Lieback Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I heard long ago that the undercling/pocket thing is actually a manufactured hold: someone in the 70's smashed it out of the flake with a hammer. Its possible to complete the problem without using it. For maximum style points, step back left above the lip of the overhang and top out on slab.
By James Geddes
From: Esco, CA
May 23, 2009

Why is this marked a 'trad' route?
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 28, 2009

"May 23, 2009 Why is this marked a 'trad' route?"

I wanted to give it a YDS rating as all the Santee guides to date have. That was the only way.
By TBONE
From: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Jan 1, 2012

more ridiculous examples of 5th class ratings for boulder problems. just because someone did this crap in the past does not mean it's a good idea to keep doing it. fun problem. V3
By HarrisonE
From: Stateline, NV
Jan 10, 2012

I was messing around on the traverse yesterday at sunset and right after the sun had set about 100 bats flew out of that crack. It scared the shit out of me because I just had my hands in the crack for the start of the traverse.
By Tradoholic
Jul 12, 2012

This thing is pretty polished nowadays. Tough to feel solid.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Super classic santee climb!~!! Great fun and tough till u get the beta. Finish out above the undercling for ultimate reward! Super polished nowdays... Actually all of " mudball" is pretty classic and polished.
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 19, 2013

V2...need to convert these to V-grades
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 10, 2013

From 10c all the way to V3.
By nds
From: Oceanside, Ca
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Funny the conversation and varied opinions on the grade of this climb. One of the more enjoyable lines at Santee in my opinion and placed in any other bouldering area would be in the solid v2 to v3 range. Yet it's in polished old school Santee so it gets 11a which is equivalent to v1. Take it for what it is, a decent boulder problem that requires a little technique and a little power. Climb it and move on to better stuff.