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Lieback Rock
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Lieback Rock Dyno 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a Hueco: V0 Font: 4

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,402
Submitted By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007  with updates from Logan Swartz

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Dialing in the "dyno"

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Description 

Work your way up and then dyno to a large jug. Then up to the top. Can be done static as well but it takes more skill.

Location 

Just left of the lieback rail at the start of the lieback.

Protection 

Skill.


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Dyno.
BETA PHOTO: Dyno.

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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 9, 2007

This one got harder when the launching hold broke.. used to be a flat horizontal incut for both hands. For bonus points go both hands!
By Tradoholic
Jul 12, 2012

More dead point than dyno. V0+
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Why is everyone rating this in 5.10?? Not a hard climb unless you count for the polished foot hold, but still.
By Sdm1568
From: Ca
Sep 27, 2012

I agree hands are good, I don't usually dyno this, more fun to work feet up and stretch for the ledge.
By Industrialwrench
Oct 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

It's fun. Love this boulder in general. Did this problem for the first time barefoot. It's not as slick as it seems...I lost a good size piece of my toe pad, bleeding, on that smear.
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 19, 2013

V0- at best
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  V0 4

Crux I think is getting to holds to dyno from. slippery feet
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 18, 2014

Logan, I tried adding V0 as an alternate grade, not sure the practical effect it will have on consensus grading here though. Can you go back and let me know if that unlocked your ability to vote in the "Hueco" scale?

This area is, IMHO, a fine example of the shortcomings of the V- scale. YDS gives fine accuracy in the single digit 5.s, whereas V- dismisses all of the gradation as "too easy to bother with." V0s and V-easy or V-basic grades get misapplied to many routes that aren't that hard, making the art of climbing needlessly obscure to beginners. I dream of a world that uses a sensible full range, egalitarian pure decimal scale like the Ewbank! ... har har....
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Sep 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  V0 4

Justin it did unlock the ability to vote in the "Hueco" scale. I just did it. Having both I think is the best of both worlds! Thanks!
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 19, 2014

Logan, totally agree, and thanks for confirming MP grades are working like I thought they would! I'll add the V scales to the other routes you mentioned, too.