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Lower Gibraltar
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Chimney Sweep T 
Conundrum T,TR 
Left of Rapture S 
Lieback Annie T,TR 
Rapture, The S,TR 
Warrior Crack T 

Lieback Annie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Adam and Bob Garnett, September 1977
Page Views: 2,453
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006  with updates from Tom Adam

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Holly prepares to tackle the crux mantle on Liebac...

Description 

One star doesn't seem like a lot, but hey, it's an OK little climb that would be four stars if the corner went on for more than 20 feet.

The right most route in the obvious dihedral. A good line to show beginners something other than face climbing.

Protection 

Good pro exists and there are bolts at the top.


Photos of Lieback Annie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Simone climbs the beautiful dihedral of "Lieb...
Simone climbs the beautiful dihedral of "Lieb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Simone tackles the awkward, cruxy mantle of "...
Simone tackles the awkward, cruxy mantle of "...
Rock Climbing Photo: 8 year old Jocelyn beginning the lie back section ...
8 year old Jocelyn beginning the lie back section ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting on top of the crux, spun out the first tim...
Getting on top of the crux, spun out the first tim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik enjoys perfect liebacking.
Erik enjoys perfect liebacking.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jaala on Lieback Annie near the fun mantle.
Jaala on Lieback Annie near the fun mantle.

Comments on Lieback Annie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2016
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun and aesthetic little route. As EricT says, IF ONLY this dihedral extended for a nice long pitch...


This is an excellent beginner's trad route EXCEPT for a 15-20 foot runout at the start on 5.6 terrain. This can be protected by placing a 3-3.5" piece at the bottom of the crack while on rappel. Next, clip one of the strands (above your rappel device) to this piece. Then pull the end of the rope that is clipped. When your rope falls, it will be pre-clipped through the first piece of gear. Lead away!

The top of this route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins that were placed in 2003. These can be backed up by extending a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt which is set five feet back from the edge of the cliff.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 17, 2008

I agree, this is a great beginner trad route. The crux, while exciting, protects very well.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Quality line. The crux protects well if you bring the small cams along (maybe blue TCU-ish?) Rack for sewing the thing up would probably be about a single set from blue tcu to #4 new style camalot. Could skip about every other size easily. Fun climb, easy access, why not?
By SteveSly
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 14, 2010

Follow up to the loose bolts, have they been replaced?
By Ben Goodman
Aug 11, 2010

Climbed this today, glue-ins have been replaced by what looks like 1/2" RAWL Expansion bolts with some BEEFY hangers. Looks good to go!
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 12, 2010

Thank Matt Fienup for the anchor makeover!
By Floyd Hayes
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sweet lead! But stiff for 5.7.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 5, 2015

the higher bolted rap anchor above the finish of Lieback Annie now only has one bolted beefy hanger, with just an empty hole to its left. easy enough to supplement with gear and long sling tho. the two bolts with flimpsy hangers at feet level where The Rapture finishes are both still there.
By Larry Shaw 1
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 23, 2015

The upper part of this climb felt more challenging than the bolted climb to the left, it's a fun one and worth doing.
By Tom Adam
Apr 12, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I really have enjoyed the comments here from people who've done the route. Bob Garnett and I put this up back in the pre-cam days (Friends were just coming onto the market), but today's cams are absolutely ideal for it. I'm glad Matthew took the initiative to put in some more robust anchors at the top, since the originals we put in were 3/8" Red Heads and should have been replaced years (decades?) ago. My very first leader fall was on this route, trying to make that mantle. Definitely a thrill!

Have fun, folks!

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