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Lower Gibraltar
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Conundrum 
Left of Rapture 
Lieback Annie 
Rapture, The 
Warrior Crack 

Lieback Annie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brown, Grosvener, Baird
Page Views: 1,754
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
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Holly prepares to tackle the crux mantle on Liebac...

Description 

One star doesn't seem like a lot, but hey, it's an OK little climb that would be four stars if the corner went on for more than 20 feet.

The right most route in the obvious dihedral. A good line to show beginners something other than face climbing.


Protection 

Good pro exists and there are bolts at the top.



Photos of Lieback Annie Slideshow Add Photo
Simone climbs the beautiful dihedral of "Lieback Annie."
Simone climbs the beautiful dihedral of "Lieback A...
Simone tackles the awkward, cruxy mantle of "Lieback Annie."
Simone tackles the awkward, cruxy mantle of "Lieba...
Erik enjoys perfect liebacking.
Erik enjoys perfect liebacking.
Comments on Lieback Annie Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is a fun and aesthetic little route. As EricT says, IF ONLY this dihedral extended for a nice long pitch...


This is an excellent beginner's trad route EXCEPT for a 15-20 foot runout at the start on 5.6 terrain. This can be protected by placing a 3-3.5" piece at the bottom of the crack while on rappel. Next, clip one of the strands (above your rappel device) to this piece. Then pull the end of the rope that is clipped. When your rope falls, it will be pre-clipped through the first piece of gear. Lead away!

The top of this route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins that were placed in 2003. These can be backed up by extending a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt which is set five feet back from the edge of the cliff.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 17, 2008

I agree, this is a great beginner trad route. The crux, while exciting, protects very well.

By Joe Stern
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Quality line. The crux protects well if you bring the small cams along (maybe blue TCU-ish?) Rack for sewing the thing up would probably be about a single set from blue tcu to #4 new style camalot. Could skip about every other size easily. Fun climb, easy access, why not?

By SteveSly
From: Livermore, CA
Jan 14, 2010

Follow up to the loose bolts, have they been replaced?

By Ben Goodman
Aug 11, 2010

Climbed this today, glue-ins have been replaced by what looks like 1/2" RAWL Expansion bolts with some BEEFY hangers. Looks good to go!

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 12, 2010

Thank Matt Fienup for the anchor makeover!

By Floyd Hayes
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Sweet lead! But stiff for 5.7.