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Licorice Stick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,740
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Description 

Climb the face up to the black, wet, left-facing dihedral. This is a major water runoff whenever it has rained or snow is melting. If you can find it dry, it's a great steep route with as many face holds as jamming.

Protection 

Cams in the finger-hand size.


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Licorice Stick.
Licorice Stick.
Licorice Stick covered with ice.
BETA PHOTO: Licorice Stick covered with ice.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2014
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Jan 9, 2002

Note: Ratings are subjective!!

I have a couple guide books that show this is sent at 5.7+. I don't feel this is any harder than 5.8. It has a couple awkard stances that may produce the feeling of it being harder than it really is. This is in my opinion and no disrespect to Ben.
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Mar 25, 2002

Keep your hands in the crack for an increased rating; also, for a clean start, there is an undercling for your right hand that is found in a plumb line with the crack. Start with this to keep to the route. This is better than starting up the face then moving right. Fun route, lots of options for feet and hands.
By Sean O'Dell
Jun 1, 2002

For what its worth, I found this route to be interesting and sustained and probably worthy of a 9- (ish) rating. Whatever number you attach to it, this route demands a really cool combination of crack and face styles and if it wasn't for the potential for it to be wet at times, I'd call it a three-star.
By Ken McVicker
Sep 18, 2002

Good route but easy. Nice warmup, if a 9 definitely a -. Using the crack as a layback definitely makes it easier. On my second climb of this doing a layback allowed my to fly up this.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Sep 18, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Now that I think about this, it is more like 5.8. I just put the rating posted in Tom's book.
By Dan Mottinger
Mar 20, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

While not a hard 5.9, I believe this route deserves the 5.9 rating. Steep sustained and a few tricky techniques when leading it. When compared to 5.8 trad climbs at the Wood, this climb is a notch harder, IMHO.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
May 1, 2003

Try this one barefoot for some real fun!
By pinchepaco
From: castle rock, co
Sep 21, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is one of the best warm up climbs on this wall. very fun. it also comes with an annoying amount of rope drag.
By Captain Splatt
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The hardest part of this route is the start, and it isn't all that hard as it is tricky. As for the rest of the climb, stems ane liebacks make the route easy. Technical but fun. 5.7+ all the way.
By tyler88
From: Durango, CO
May 2, 2007

This is a fun route, but I got a hex stuck about 1/4 of the way up. Feel free to use it, definitely solid. Or if you get it out good job.
By Mike Carrington
From: Centenntial
Oct 10, 2008

Hold broke off of the climb about 3/4 of the way up some time in the last few weeks. I was soloing it and noticed right away it was missing.
By rangerdrew
From: Loveland
Oct 17, 2012

If I was planning on leading it, I'd want a bouldering pad available. I'd say a hold broke off somewhere about 8 feet up in the giant hole. No real pro for maybe 10-12 feet, and a sketchy start make it a difficult lead. The rest of the route is much easier.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Over the years, with holds breaking off and others becoming polished, this route has become a stiff 5.9, perhaps even harder when wet. Great route.