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Unsorted Routes:

Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 1,757
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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Chasing the winter sun.

Description 

This route is located on the Bulge Wall. The start is the second route from the right-most edge of the shelf/ledge. The first fifteen feet is the crux with one VERY sharp hold.


Protection 

7 bolts to anchor.



Photos of Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump Slideshow Add Photo
Cathy onsighting Love Pump.
Cathy onsighting Love Pump.
A busy day in the shade for good reason. Allison above the crux of the route and reaching for glory.
A busy day in the shade for good reason. Allison a...
Emma and Emily.
Emma and Emily.
Comments on Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2012
By William Prehm
Oct 18, 2001

After the crux moves at the start, I thought the climb eased up a lot all the way to the anchors. I could have sworn that this was the furthest climb to the right on the large ledge. I thought Jumbo Pumping Love started on the ground to the right of the big ledge? Definite signs you are on the right climb is the knife-like hold fifteen feet from the start and that there are 7 bolts on route.

By Sean O'Dell
Apr 9, 2002

It is the right-most route on the ledge - you're right. One of the funnest .10s I've been on at Shelf, too! Combines all sorts of moves - laybacks, crimpy face stuff, pockets...the crux with the razor hold is a right-leaning layback on a flake. Reward for the beginning difficulties is a series of jugs in the upper stretch. Do this route!

By Barrett Cooper
Apr 10, 2002

The way to determine this climb is to find the right most, waist high, bolt with the hanger and belay from there on the ledge. The climb goes directly up from there. The climb all the way to the right on the ledge can be led from the ground or from the end of the ledge but does not have a belay anchor up on the ledge.

By shad O'Neel
Apr 13, 2003

The waist high bolt is a bit strange, but whatever, skip it and enjoy. I don't recall a sharp hold. I thought the crux was figuring out what to do once you complete the one or two super fun layback moves. You have a lot of momentum at that point. Maybe, that's where the sharp hold used to be? Still, after that, it's a mellow cruise, with huge holes to rest in.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2004

The waist high bolt was a retro-bolt of the route. Did someone want it for a belay or something? I see no reason for it and it will be removed by the route owner.

By ac
Jul 16, 2004

Just simple lines intertwining, you know, very much like... I'm really influenced by Mozart and Bach, and it's sort of in between those, really. It's like a Mach piece, really. -Nigel

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

A very fun route with a crux down low (just above or at the first bolt) and enjoyable climbing above. Contrary to what is posted here, this route is the second route from the right-most edge of the shelf/ledge. The right-most climb is the 5.10d Jumbo Pumping Love route. The waist high bolt, in my opinion, is placed there for an anchor for the belayer since the belayer is standing on an exposed ledge about ten feet above the ground.

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I don't understand why people are so upset about the low bolt. I was standing on top of the ledge, checking out the opening moves, and remembering that I had read that the crux happens early. I thought to myself that I had a possibility of decking if I fell early, but then I found and clipped the low bolt and felt quite a bit safer. With that peace of mind, I flashed the thing. If the bolt bothers you so much, just ignore it.

P.S. Nobody "owns" this route, or any other at Shelf.

By Cathy
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Referred to as just "Love Pump" in the Shelf Road Rock guidebook (2005).

By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2012

First bolt is for anchoring in and wouldn't do a thing to keep a leader off the ledge. Admittedly though, it could keep you and your partner from decking all the way to the ground, 10 feet lower, in the event the leader falls before clipping the true first bolt. A few climbs on this ledge have this low anchor bolt.

By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I will second the motion in favor of keeping the low bolts on this ledge. They serve several purposes, the main one of which is to anchor the belay. They weren't there in the '90s, but I welcome their addition. A nice secondary purpose (probably not the primary purpose by the party that placed them) is having a solid low bolt for an anchor for solo belay.

We'd all still climb this excellent wall if someone pulled them, but it seems a shame that anyone would be so OCD as to destroy something that wasn't hurting them and which may be helping others. Please, let the little guy stay parked on the wall, and if it doesn't meet with your fancy, please do your best to ignore it.