Lick It Up
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Squirm up through the widening crack to the widest pod below the finger crack. Pull out of the pod and climb the crack until it tapers off. At this point, you will have a good right hand and a dish big enough to stick both your feet in. Enter the crux sequence by moving left into thin face climbing to eventually reach a great jug. From here move back right along the right rising crack to the obvious topout. Beware of the kind of perched block in this area. Use it tenderly. Once you fully toput, move left down a little slab to the open area with a belay tree.
Maybe 20 feet right uphill of Finger It Out. The wide pod around 10 feet high is pretty distinct.
Basically a standard rack of nuts and cams with a selection of some smaller gear. An upside down #3 blue BD cam protects the last bit of traverse off left to the trees pretty well (also protects the second if you don't immediately place gear after pulling through the crux). You may want to place one on the earlier part of the climb, so take an extra one if you do. You may find room for doubles of some finger sized stuff as well. There is a tree with a fixed anchor off to the left when you get up there that you can belay a second from and rappel from. This route is not super easily toproped, but if you leave the last #3 upside down cam in, it can be a decent enough directional for someone to toprope it on.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jun 12, 2015
Great well-protected little pitch!