Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 180 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Ed Ash? Kyle Copeland? Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Sep 2, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is not on the Bihedral but just ACROSS THE RIVER from the Bihedral. It is on the same buttress as Whodathunkit & Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine. Perhaps not of the same quality rock. Park at the pullout just West of the Bihedral/Riviera on the South side of the road. Wade/hop the river. Wander 5 minutes ESE. This ascends the R side the buttress.

Find a short, left-facing dihedral of easy difficulty. Head up. Climb a short right-facing dihedral. From here there are 2 options, straight over a little roof 5.10 R or traverse right 8 feet and back left above. Then angle up and right. You could join The Crack Where Sun Don't Shine finish or angle right across slabs (crux) with marginal protection until you are under a small overlap/roof. Traverse right and up and finally you are there. Hmmm. Not sure it's worth a star, but it was lead ground-up and made for a nice little adventure.

Rap 180 feet from the tree or 3rd class+ down the right side of the buttress.

In 2009, this line was effectively retrobolted with probably 4-5 lines crossing it and scattering a bunch of bolts that effectively make it no longer R rated and removed the adventure from this climb. Certainly, the first bolt between left-facing and right-facing dihedrals near the ground was not necessary and the 2nd bolt should be removed.

Apparently the variations include:

Good Clean Fun, 7-9, 1p, 85'-105', bolts & gear.
Good Slab Fun, 8-9, variation, bolts.
Good Crack Fun, 9, variation, bolt & gear.
Step Aside, 7, variation, bolt.
Good Corner Fun, 6, variation, gear.
Final Flake, 6, variation, 100', gear.

Addendum: in late 10/09, we were informed that this line had been climbed ground up at least back in 1997 and was not named at that time. Ed Ash has also indicated he climbed all over this rock in the 1980s. So, this line has been climbed by multiple parties safely without bolts and the bolts diminish the adventure of the line.

Protection 

Aliens, wires, Friends to #2 1/2, 60m rope.