Lichening The Serpent 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler |
| Submitted By: | Scott Beguin on Aug 14, 2007 |
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The Golden Boy on the first ascent.
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Description The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day.
Location Same as for Diablo at The Early Wall then climb either Drunk Rednecks, Clip Art, or Dr. Diablo and go above the anchors to a sketchy 5th class scramble(a green Alien protects a move) up to the belay anchors for Lichening The Serpent that is located at a notch between the wall and a very large block.
Protection 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
| Comments on Lichening The Serpent |
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2008
| D. Newell made a toprope ascent with one of the FAs listed here, scoping the line, prior to its being bolted, he said, (if I remember correctly). |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.11c
| The lichen covered "thank god" horn/flake between bolts 6 and 7 flexes quite a lot. Don't yard on it too hard. |
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