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Gutenberger Wall
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Easy Way Up, The 
Got Gas? 
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Gutenberger Edge 
Gutenberger Wall Direct 
Gutenberger's Wall 
Lichen Us 
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Right Up the Line 
Sadam. Me? 
Tanks for the Memories 
Trout Fishing 

Lichen Us 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown 1990s
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 12, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Lichen Us runs left of the central crack on Gutenb...

Description 

A good route with 3/8" bolts reasonably spaced. Follows the nice face left of the obvious central crack system, called Gutenberger Wall Direct (GWD). From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) can either climb down to a gear belay down and left of GWD and head straight up from there (bolts), or diagonal left across GWD to a bolted belay at the base of the third pitch (the stuff). Can rappell the route.


Location 

The nice face left of GWD. Cross the river on slippery boulders below the GWD. In the Spring this may be impossible: use your head and don't die. Climb by the various Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a the long traverse out a nice crack out right till you can cut back to the "Grand Central Belay Station". Proceed onto the route from there.
The Gutenberger Wall Direct is a nice, though sometimes dirty, climb following the central crack system using pro from small to medium cams and nuts, about 5.7.


Protection 

Bolts, light rack, thin to mediums nuts & cams.



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By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 23, 2010

OK bolts. At least one rusted quarter incher and some sort of drilled head? Most of the other bolts looked alright, but definitely not new bolts here.