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Devil's Advocate
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Lichen-thrope 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006
New Route: Yes
Season: NW facing corner gets sha
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006

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Tony Bubb on the FA of 'Lichen-thrope (5.8, R).' P...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Published for the sake of info- so you know to bring a brush or not to bother with it. The first 4 meters needs cleaning to be worthy. After cleaning, it won't be a bomb....
The route is in an awkward corner for a few feet with no real crack to protect until you get established a few meters up on a good horizontal. After that, textbook stopper placements are in the corner and the route ascends nice edges on the left-side of the dihedral, on the main wall.
After about 40 feet you arrive at a belay tree with a rap anchor on it.

Location 

Reach the far West end of the Devil's Advocate, and find where a chimney splits this into 2 massive roofs. Walk north of here to a left-facing dihedral with poor rock and no pro at the bottom. A tree at the top has a single good sling and mallion rapid link on it for a rap anchor.

Protection 

No pro until after the crux. Mind the rock quality and moss/lichen- I did not have a brush when I did this route so it has not been cleaned. After 4 meters, all you need is a set of stoppers for textbook placements up the corner to the fixed anchor on the tree (webbing and a rapid-link.)


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