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> Lower Buttress
Lichen It
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 6
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Routes in Lower Buttress
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Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scorpio S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Chris Summit |
| Page Views: | 1,696 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jerry Dodrill on Jan 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a long overlooked gem of a trad route at the Far Side. The first known ascent was by Chris Summit and was one of the earliest of the many new routes he has since established in the Bay Area and across California. Listed as a dirty 5.8 crack in his Wine Country Rocks book, it was destined for obscurity. Recently it was scrubbed and rediscovered as an excellent adventure in a stunning Far Side setting that will continue to get better with additional traffic.
Location
On the lowest, farthest west formation of the FarSide, the route is just around the corner, Left of Seymore Frishberg and Boneless Chicken Ranch. Start from the ledge. Climb up gray rock into the corner, placing cams in pockets. Pull a bulge to easy terrain then climb up into a steepening dihedral. Stem between pocketed faces and plug cams in the crack for protection. Walk up and off to the left to get back to the base.
Protection
A single set of cams should suffice, from fingers to #2 Camalot. I put a #5 into a huge pocket for a first piece, but a smaller piece may work as well. Save a few pieces for a gear anchor on the ledge at top. Belay from above or use long slings to top rope. There are no bolts on the route.
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