Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Barber Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The 
Big Deal Rock Climb 
Black Crack 
Black Lung 
Book of Solemnity, The 
Chicken Delight 
Double Vee 
Dresden 
Final Gesture 
Hatful of Hollow 
Jolt 
Kim Jung Il 
Layton's Ascent 
Lichen Delight 
Lichen It a Lot 
Medusa 
Nomad Crack 
Nutcracker 
Off the Hook 
Perseus  
Reconciliation 
Retaliation 
Upper Refuse 
Webster's Unabridged 
Youth Challenge 

Lichen It a Lot 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B Delany, J Pheasant 1976
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 15, 2009
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Lichen It a Lot is another great crack climb on the Barber Wall. Only 30ft of the climb is different from Lichen Delight (5.11a), but this finish gives it a totally different feel over all. Though the grade is a bit lower I don't see one easier than the other.

Climb the awkward corner hand crack of Lichen Delight to a nice resting stance below a roof. While Lichen Delight goes out right at the roof, Lichen It a Lot goes out left and makes a few hard moves in to a small, left facing, bottomless corner with a very thin crack in it. Getting in to the corner is hard, but there is good pro and once established in the corner there are decent finger locks to the top. Move right and belay from gear or a large pine tree. Rap from the tree with one 60m rope (tie knots in the end).


Location 

Start on Lichen Delight, this is the left facing corner with a sweet hand crack starting from a ledge in the middle of the Barber Wall. At the roof move left and up the corner finger crack.


Protection 

Regular rack to #3 maybe extra hands pieces for the first half if you don't like running it out a little on an awkward hand crack.



Comments on Lichen It a Lot Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 15, 2009

Nice ! This route has 5 moves of 5.10 and Delight has one move of 11a ? they both should be 10+