Lichen It a Lot is another great crack climb on the Barber Wall. Only 30ft of the climb is different from Lichen Delight (5.11a), but this finish gives it a totally different feel over all. Though the grade is a bit lower I don't see one easier than the other.
Climb the awkward corner hand crack of Lichen Delight to a nice resting stance below a roof. While Lichen Delight goes out right at the roof, Lichen It a Lot goes out left and makes a few hard moves in to a small, left facing, bottomless corner with a very thin crack in it. Getting in to the corner is hard, but there is good pro and once established in the corner there are decent finger locks to the top. Move right and belay from gear or a large pine tree. Rap from the tree with one 60m rope (tie knots in the end).
Start on Lichen Delight, this is the left facing corner with a sweet hand crack starting from a ledge in the middle of the Barber Wall. At the roof move left and up the corner finger crack.
Regular rack to #3 maybe extra hands pieces for the first half if you don't like running it out a little on an awkward hand crack.
|Comments on Lichen It a Lot
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Apr 15, 2009
Nice ! This route has 5 moves of 5.10 and Delight has one move of 11a ? they both should be 10+