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License To Thrill 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vince Adams
Page Views: 5,414
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Kip, Tom Caldwell, John Ross climbing LTT
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Classic AF limestone haul - who can forget the hype surrounding the one "big" feature 15 or so feet off the ground of License to Thrill. Since License went in, there have been many good limestone hauls established here and elsewhere, and nowadays it may be less of a thrill than it was a decade ago. Nonetheless, License is probably one of the not-to-miss classics at AF. I thought the crux was high, at or below the roof band where things are a bit spooky (there is a clip just over the roof, so don't give up!). Pumpy throughout.


Protection 

Ten draws and a rope



Photos of License To Thrill Slideshow Add Photo
Mark pulling roof on License to Thrill 5.11c
Mark pulling roof on License to Thrill 5.11c
Do you feel the thrill?
Do you feel the thrill?
Big moves big holds.
Big moves big holds.
license to thrill
license to thrill
Moving to the roof, at the forth bolt,"License to Thrill" <br /> <br />Great route!
Moving to the roof, at the forth bolt,"License to ...
Feeling pretty thrilled
Feeling pretty thrilled
Comments on License To Thrill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Neal Carroll
Oct 12, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

One of the few routes at American Fork that would be good at any climbing area in America. Classic.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

overhanging from the getgo. pockets lead to the roof with good holds then you get a great rest. the top section is more technical with some nice exposed climbing and reaches.

By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

Uber classic line!!!

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Such a stellar climb and spot on for the grade! The climbing is steep and pumpy from the beginning all the way to the roof. There is a fantastic rest right under the roof. As soon as you commit to pull over the roof you'll come to another nice rest. The crux for me was as you begin to traverse right above the roof on a few slopey holds. The last clip is pretty much useless! A few of the pockets on the first half are fairly dirty. For 5.11 this is an AF must do!!!

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Jul 26, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Amazing climb! One of the greatest lines I've done. Super pumpy! I'm excited to work on the redpoint. The holds are bomber through to the crux. The crux is a long reach off some slopers about 8' above the roof. Super classic climb! A must do!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011

I agree with Neal's assessment that this climb would hold up at any climbing area. There's not a bad move on the thing or a crummy hold, just pumpy climbing pulling awesome, well-protected moves. I wish this thing was in my neighborhood, I would get as strong as a butter churning monkey.