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5.8 Crag
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License to Ill 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Damboise 10/87
Page Views: 880
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007
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Description 

License to Ill is one of the best climbs at the crag, move for move. The climbing is interesting and exciting, and the gear is good enough where you need it. I think it is more PG13 than R, but the guidebook says R due to a recorded ground fall, so I will too. It's not as scary as Blue Balls at Christmas.

So, you follow interesting moves up a flake and out left to a letter box slot (protect with TCU) climbing to the crux in the upper third of the route. A pretty big move to a good crimpy hold with a small(I use a #7 stopper I think) but solid nut at your waist. You can prolly get away with smaller crimpy moves too.

Climb it on TR first if you are not totally solid in the grade, because it is a little spicy.


Location 

Just right of Romancing the Stone is a left-facing corner with cracks in it. Climb this to a stance on a ledge and continue up a right facing flake and follow the weakness to a 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

A few nuts and TCUs or Aliens. I worked out gear on TR, so I could pre-rack.



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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

The route is to the RIGHT of Romancing the Stone, and yes, the gear is more PG13 than R, but should be approached with certain caution due to the friable nature of Schist. Why this route hasn't been bolted yet is beyond me!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 4, 2007

Please don't bolt this route.... It's nice to know that with a small rack and a cool head there are routes you don't have to wait in line for on a busy day....

By Tristan Perry
Sep 21, 2007

I agree with Lee: it would be tragic to lose the special character of the route to someone's bolting fantasy. If it's too scary for some on lead, what is so inadequate about a lap on toprope? This is, in my opinion, the best route on the wall - don't bolt it!!!

By Victor McConnell
Sep 22, 2007

I agree with Tristan and Lee. No need to bolt this one.

While I understand that Rumney is a sport crag, I don't think crags should be developed in a totally homogenous fashion.

For people who begin climbing at Rumney (as I did), it is good to look in the guidebook and see that trad routes with a bit of mental factor exist.

By S. Neoh
Aug 26, 2010

This route is great, way better than Blue Balls in my opinion. It has mostly been a TR problem for years and years. If the "recorded ground fall" is the one I am thinking of, I believe a piece of gear might have pulled in that incident, resulting in the climber hitting the ground, sustaining non life threatening injuries. Lucky guy.