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(3) Phoenix
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License To Bolt 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl & Jeff Ellington 4/87
Page Views: 1,680
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>


This vicious little route hits you with a low crux but stays on you till the anchor.
The rock is sharp but the moves excellent. It may be a bit easier for tall people.


just left of Phoenix



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By C Miller
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A good climb that was originally known as "JBGHSL" when done as a TR. The name stems back to the friction between the old Tradionalists and the "new wave" Tricksters; if you don't know what the acronym stands for ask around and I'm sure you'll find out.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 9, 2008

I am 5'6" tall and climb 5.11 regularly and I couldn't do the move so I would agree that it might be easier if you are tall. It could be a long humbling week if height is not a valid excuse.
By Ben2
From: Bend, OR
Jun 15, 2008

I'm 5'4" or so and just got back on the route today. Though I didn't redpoint it, the moves seemed easier than before, and not quite so "reachy". Thought I'd post this in case any other shorties out there were getting nervous!
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this route was very difficult for .11b (compared to say vomit launch). Got shut down by the lower crux. The climbing on the upper part of the route is great and on some unique stone.
By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009

Hardest 11 I've ever been on. In terms of other 11b climbs, it's way harder than Cool Ranch Flavor (on Morning Glory), and is harder than Embryonic (rated 11d, on Student Wall). Maybe I am too short (I'm 5'10") or was just stupid, but the lower crux felt solid 11d or harder to me.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 27, 2009

Welcome to Smith! Its not you, this just happens to be one of the classic Smith sandbags. Not a good choice for a warm day.
By cerickson
From: Portland, OR
Aug 30, 2010

I'm 6'2 and thought the low crux on this route was brutal. Very hard for 11b, the middle and upper parts of the route are awesome!
By richard magill
Jun 22, 2012

great route,lots of fun movement. move down low is definitely the hardest move by far. would probably be rated 12a if it were in Colorado...
By another Chad
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Interesting climb. The challenge of the crux drew me in. Reaching the two finger pocket is a full extension deadpoint for me (at 5'9" tall). And then what the hell do you do with your feet?! It took some experimenting and swearing. Thanks for the patient belays!

Hardest 5.11c I've ever done.

By MilesC
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The reach is horrible and sandbagged, but afterwards this eases into a very fun bunch of 5.11 moves on excellent rock.

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