Liberty Cap Rock Climbing
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|Administrators: ||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2006|
The prow of Liberty Cap Buttress.
This crag has some of the best single pitch crack climbes in the area. Included in this section are Walmart Tower and Safeway Spire.
Drive west out of Grand Junction on Broadway (CO 340) into the Redlands. Drive approximately 3 miles turning left (south) onto Redlands Parkway. After 0.5 mile, the road curves right (east) and becomes South Broadway at South Camp Road. Continue west on South Broadway for approximately 0.5 mile to Wildwood Drive, turning left at the Liberty Cap Trailhead Sign and parking lot on the right. A 30-40 minute hike, level at first then steep, will bring you to a sign reading "to Rim Rock Drive - Liberty Cap Trail (right) Ute Canyon Trail (left)". Take Ute Canyon, follow it until the buttress is on the left, look for a path that leads up the cliff face. (Courtesy of Desert Rock III
, Eric Bjornstad.)
Per Jonathan Stickel
: the trailhead is now called "Wildwood Trailhead" and is there on Wildwood Dr.
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Liberty Cap
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Liberty Cap
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Liberty Cap:
On Fire 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Stonehenge 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
F/S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Irish Pride 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Kokopelli 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Cool Breeze 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Osiris 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For Liberty Cap
Osiris 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO
: Grand Junction Area
: ... : Liberty Cap
This is a great finger crack which turns into a steep, overhanging layback. This turns into small pocketed finger jams till you can get a hand in. Then move to fingers and into an alcove. Surpass the alcove, and you are at the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Far left routes.
By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 18, 2006
Great crag to get some miles in.
Aug 24, 2011
Has the trailhead changed? I hadn't gone there in years and then I tried to take my girlfriend there in June. I remembered the turn at Wildwood Drive and there was a gated/locked dirt road, which I believe was the old trailhead. I double-checked the Desert Rock III guidebook, and it described what I remembered. How do we access Liberty Cap and Ute Canyon, now?
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Oct 13, 2014
The trailhead is now called "Wildwood Trailhead" and is there on Wildwood Dr.