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Liberty Cap
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Blackburn Atom SL 5.0 Cyclometer Red

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Mad Rock Demon 2.0 Climbing Shoe

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Kelty Deluxe Lounge Chair

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Newton

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beauty And the Beast 
Cool Breeze 
Double Jeopardy 
F/S 
Fire Within 
Irish Pride 
Kokopelli 
Leprechaun 
Never Cry Wolf 
On Fire 
Osiris 
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount 
St. Patrick's Day Massacre 
Steppin' On it 
Stonehenge 
Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks 
Whirling Dervish 
Unsorted Routes:

Liberty Cap 


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Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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The prow of Liberty Cap Buttress.

Description 

This crag has some of the best single pitch crack climbes in the area. Included in this section are Walmart Tower and Safeway Spire.


Getting There 

Drive west out of Grand Junction on Broadway (CO 340) into the Redlands. Drive approximately 3 miles turning left (south) onto Redlands Parkway. After 0.5 mile, the road curves right (east) and becomes South Broadway at South Camp Road. Continue west on South Broadway for approximately 0.5 mile to Wildwood Drive, turning left at the Liberty Cap Trailhead Sign and parking lot on the right. A 30-40 minute hike, level at first then steep, will bring you to a sign reading "to Rim Rock Drive - Liberty Cap Trail (right) Ute Canyon Trail (left)". Take Ute Canyon, follow it until the buttress is on the left, look for a path that leads up the cliff face. (Courtesy of Desert Rock III, Eric Bjornstad.)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Liberty Cap:
Steppin' On it   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
On Fire   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Stonehenge   5.10b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
F/S   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Double Jeopardy   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount   5.10+ C2-     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   
Irish Pride   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Beauty And the Beast   5.10c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
St. Patrick's Day Massacre   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Cool Breeze   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Never Cry Wolf   5.11c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Osiris   5.12a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in Liberty Cap

Featured Route For Liberty Cap
Matt rocking the Breeze.

Cool Breeze 5.11-  CO : Grand Junction area : ... : Liberty Cap
Start up perfect low angle hands. Mantle to and then struggle (for small hands) up a offwidth/big fists to gain a flake that has good hand jams behind it....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Liberty Cap Slideshow Add Photo
Far left routes.

BETA PHOTO: Far left routes.

Prow routes.

BETA PHOTO: Prow routes.


Comments on Liberty Cap Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 18, 2006

Great crag to get some miles in.

By D-Storm
Aug 24, 2011

Has the trailhead changed? I hadn't gone there in years and then I tried to take my girlfriend there in June. I remembered the turn at Wildwood Drive and there was a gated/locked dirt road, which I believe was the old trailhead. I double-checked the Desert Rock III guidebook and it described what I remembered. How do we access Liberty Cap and Ute Canyon, now?