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Liberace's Anus 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Byron Morton around 1989
Page Views: 1,515
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 31, 2006
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Kevin on Liberace's Anus.

Description 

Just left of the arete that is "The Ramp (5.7)" on the face. Right of the corner arete formation. Good jugs will lead you all the way to the top.


Protection 

Bolts and a little bit of gear in the finger sizes to a bolted anchor.



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By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Dec 15, 2008

Big jugs with several rests if you want them. Crux is moving left past the second bolt. Climbers with reach will find this easier.

By Orlando
Feb 8, 2010

Just thought I'd mention the long runout after the 5th bolt. It's fairly casual, 5.7ish, but runout nonetheless. Of course, if that doesn't sound like too much fun, it will protect well with a couple of small-medium cams.

By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Feb 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

It's not as much fun, but you can skip some of the runout by heading right and meeting the bolt above and to the right of the "garden". Prolly a bolt for the other climb. I tried it on a whim last week and it seemed somewhat safer.

We used to stick a stopper near the garden before going left and up. Bomber placement, and pretty easy to carry once you decide what size (I seem to remember #2, but don't bank on that), but I stopped taking the time at some point and usually just run it out.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 9, 2010

Orlando...I'm surprised you weren't wearing a pack.

Just saying...

By emmet
Aug 25, 2010

The FA was by Byron Morton around 1989.

By David MacKenzie
From: Albuquerque
Nov 5, 2012

P.S.A. -- There's currently no chain on the left bolt hanger at the anchors.