|The Trad Lands
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This is a great trad crack line with a really cool lieback on the upper half. Start in a crack on a slab between "Startled" and "Resident Bush". Head straight up the cracks as the wall gets steep, then feed into a clean, shallow right-facing corner that ends at a pair of bolts for a convenient toprope or lower-off. If you didn't bring gear, it's worth hiking round the top and reaching over the edge to rig a toprope.
Addendum: there is a TR variation of the upper half of the climb on the left. There is also a variation on the right, 5.7.
Standard gear rack to a pair of anchor bolts with rings.
BETA PHOTO: Liar Liar and Resident Bush
BETA PHOTO: Green outlines the variation, much better than the...
|By shad O'Neel|
Jan 17, 2004
One of the coolest [cracks I've] found yet at [Table], intimidating, but it sorts itself right out. Nice climbing.
|By Buff Johnson|
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Good fingercrack & stem moves in blocky sections, I used small cams and a hand-sized cam 3" (4.0 TF); crux section took a red Alien & was solid (I vote 5.9- for a couple of moves if you commit to use only the fingercrack at the crux). Placing nuts was a friggin pain & an exercise in futility for me.
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stepping left at the ledge and climbing the face crack goes at about 5.8 also. Very sustained but never too difficult. The most sustained climb I've done at North Table, and it almost made me not hate the place so much. It protects very well with stoppers, led it with passive gear only. Much better this way than following the right-facing dihedral. I actually thought this was the line. 3 stars for sure. There's way too many feet available to call it 5.9.