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|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Don Mellor & Ian Osteyee, 8/94|
|Season: ||Spring to fall|
|Submitted By: ||proto on May 28, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: Track of the route in white, rappel stations in re...
Climb the left side of an obvious mossy right facing corner to a good ledge with small trees (5.8). Climb the face above the ledge to the right until you reach the left edge of an obvious black streak. Then angle back left, past a bolt and continue up and left to belay high in the trees (5.7). Trend left in an obvious and easy corner, belay at a pine just at the base of a very clean dihedral (easy fifth class). Climb the dihedral up and then right to belay on a good stance (5.8). Climb the dihedral straight up, past small pine and then angle right when the crack disappear. Face climb right on small knobs to easier terrain (crux, 5.9, almost run out). An easy long pitch leads to the top of the huge ramp of the diagonal. Belay at bolts on a very nice terrace (5.4). Traverse right and down following the grassy ledge, past a corner and belay on a good alcove with a tree. Climb up the very nice corner for 50' and belay to avoid rope drag (5.8). Finish up climbing directly the superb corner to its top, belay at bolts (5.8).
The last pitches after the top of the ramp corresponds to the end of the Diagonal route.
From the lowest point of the cliff, traverse right, past the base of the diagonal and locate an obvious mossy right facing corner with a good ledge on the left at its end.
To go down you can either bush walk north towards Indian pass (memorable and epic!) or rappel down.
The first two raps are bolted (top of the route and top of the huge ramp). Then rappel from sometimes small birch trees. The last rappel is 200' long and ends exactly at the base of the first pitch.
Standard rack. Bolted belay at the end of the huge ramp and at the top of the route.