Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The tricky start of LC&M.
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Description This is the corner on the right-hand side of the upper Black Corridor (when facing Rebel w/o a Pause). Ascend the corner (sandbag at 5.9), then step right w/ difficulty.
Protection Six or seven bolts to a lower-off.
BETA PHOTO: Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued 5.9+
| BETA PHOTO: Looking up from just right of the belay...
| Adam from Sweden at the top of LC&M. Photo by Sean...
| Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued
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| Comments on Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued |
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By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Aug 14, 2006 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| This route is a must do with really fun moves but take care getting to the second clip as it's pretty dicey with awkward moves and the fall there has the potential to be nasty. I've seen many people (including myself) lead many of the 10's in the corridor and take a fall trying to get the second clip. Easy cruising terrain above and one of the longest in the corridor awaits! |
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Feb 6, 2007 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| The start is lame... |
By Doug Lintz From: Kearney, NE Jun 4, 2009
| Very awkward start, not a good route to lead if 5.9 is your limit. |
By Sonnabend From: West Saint Paul, MN Sep 28, 2009
| Brutal start on this route. I ended up down climbing off of it because I couldn't make it past the second bolt. I saw a guy climbing a 5.11 struggle with the start of this route. The rest of it looked fun though. Maybe if you stick clipped the first two bolts. |
By Joe Cayer From: Mesa, Az Jan 19, 2010 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| That has got to be one of the weirdest starts. I felt completely off balance getting that second clip. The rest of the route was much easier and fun. |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Sep 21, 2010 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| My first (and only) time up this route, I nearly broke my jaw on the starting ledge when I popped at the crux (before I clipped the second bolt). Literally missed it by an inch. Stick clip the second bolt on this route and its worth doing, otherwise, avoid it. |
By smassey From: CO Nov 8, 2010
| All the pro bolts have been replaced with 3.75 x 1/2. the second bolt was moved down and left due to rock quality and clipping concerns, as expressed in the above posts. The anchor has not yet been replaced. |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 15, 2011 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| On 3/15/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped it with mussy hooks. |
By Chris DeWitt From: Sacramento, CA Mar 28, 2011 rating: 5.10-
| This route has one move that is definitely not 5.9. I'm thinking more 5.10a/b. I enjoyed the top portion, although it's much more mellow. |
By Chris D From: the couch Jan 16, 2012
| The start would seem lame if you couldn't do it. If you primarily climb trad, this will be one of your favorite routes in the corridor. I thought it was spectacular. Most fun I've ever had on a sport route, but that's because the tricky stemming required to pass the low crux wasn't just another jug haul. I can definitely see where sport climbers would hate this. Not many climbing gyms prepare you for the opening moves. Reasonably well protected and fun! |
By Vince Neil Apr 7, 2012
| Agree with above post. This is one of the most interesting routes in the corridor with unique moves and a challenging opening sequence. Definitely has a trad feel. A must do. |
By Maxm Apr 11, 2012
| As stated above ^ moving to the second bolt is all friction. Have your friends take a picture as you crawl through the tunnel! |
By Brittany V From: Las Vegas, NV Jul 19, 2012
| I am not a strong 5.9 leader but I enjoyed the start and so did a friend of mine. We're both 5'4"ish. I have heard my taller male friends say that they struggled and fell at the start, so that opening sequence may just lend itself well to short flexible people for whatever reason. |
By Ben Sherwin Apr 17, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| I agree with a lot of the comments here. If you are used to trad and used to stemming you'll find this route very enjoyable. I would not have wanted to lead this route. |
By Kyle Napierkowski Apr 26, 2013
| 6'3" and I remember the start taking a couple tries, but I loved this route. My favorite at the Corridor, probably because I'm more of a trad guy |
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