Lewd and Lascivious Conduct
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BETA PHOTO: Brett on LLC with me belaying
The face between Young Lust and Smithereens is where you'll find this challenging route.
Easy moves at the start lead to a thin seam that splits the center of the face (crux). The climbing isn't especially difficult but hanging on long enough to wiggle in the gear is. Once past the crux load up some gear in a horizontal crack at mid-height and enjoy the steep edges with minimal pro that lead to the topout. The difficulty of the climb varies with how direct you stay, as wandering to either side can knock the grade down somewhat.
A serious lead that rarely gets done as most people visiting the area come for the moderate cracks of the area. Easily rigged as a toprope after leading either of the neighboring routes and much safer this way as well. One star out of five.
Gear to 2" (especially small wires), bolted anchor/rap
|Photos of Lewd and Lascivious Conduct Slideshow
stretching out up high
negotiating the seam
Joe, working out the moves down low on Lewd and La...
|Comments on Lewd and Lascivious Conduct
From: Portland, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10c R
Done on TR, the moves are actually quite fun on thin holds and balancy footwork. Fairly consistent movement all the way to the top, there's a slight pump felt by the end of the route.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10c R
We did this route on toprope this weekend, I'm gonna reinforce the comment that the rating and difficulty is completely dependent upon how direct you climb up the center. It's easy to use some of the holds on the left side of Smithereens or the right side of Young Lust. If you don't use any of these, the climb may feel more like 5.11!
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Apr 11, 2010
A fun TR, but leading this thing would be scary with no pro except one micro-nut above the horizontal. The bottom half (below the horizontal) is more protectable and not really contrived with the best holds in and near the seam. One section about 5-10' below the horizontal has a cruxy section in the 5.10b range.
Past the horizontal, the route becomes a bit more contrived. Sticking strictly to the seam and nearby crimpy holds in the dark varnish yields a sustained, technical sequence to the top that is probably closer to the 5.10d/11a range. The other option is to move 5' right to the edge of the dark varnish where big right-facing flakes produce a weakness trending up and slightly left on better holds to the top. This variation seems easier - perhaps in the 5.10a range.
So maybe the 10c rating comes from splitting the difference between the variations. I'm going with a 10b lower crux, then an 11a direct finish and 10a right finish.
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c X
Contrived and fatally squeezed. Who leads this thing? If the rap route didn't hang directly on top of it it would never get done.