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Slippery Peak
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Leviathan T 
Red and the Black, The T 
Stout-Hearted Men T 

Leviathan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Karsten Duncan, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 3, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Leviathan goes up the huge flake on Slippery Peak.

Description 

The main face of Slippery Peak rises above the apron slabs. This face is dominated by a huge flake feature. Leviathan follows a line generally up the right side of the flake for 5 or 6 pitches.

Go up the corner system for a pitch or so. When it becomes obvious that the corner itself will be blocked by a large roof, move right on face holds and climb to a good ledge. A short squeeze chimney then leads to easier climbing. Immediately above is the huge chimney leading to the top of the tower. This chimney is twenty or more feet deep, and flares very tight out to full-body bridging. There is not much protection, but you can choose the precise width you like the best. From the good ledge at the tower's top, follow a slanting crack up and right. When it ends, another pitch up an easy gully takes you to the summit ridge.

Descend by climbing down the easy gully to a rappel station at the top of the slanting crack. Rappel straight down the blank face, not back into the chimney. Three long rappels bring you back to the start.

Protection 

Cams to 6 inches


Photos of Leviathan Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Leviathan above the Slippery Peak Ap...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Leviathan above the Slippery Peak Ap...
Leviathan with belays marked.
BETA PHOTO: Leviathan with belays marked.

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