Leviathan 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. FFA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Photo of Brett Tischler taken by Tom Lukas half ha...
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Description This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.
The 10a first pitch on a 38 degree morning in Octo...
| Above the crux on the popular 10a "first pitch".
| Climber at the two-bolt anchor atop the first pitc...
| Richard Rossiter on Leviathon, Dream Canyon, photo...
| Clip.
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 1, 2001
| Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp! |
By Jay Hippel From: Denver, CO Jun 13, 2003
| 1st pitch is a fun 10a if you're not an 11 climber, 35-40 feet. |
By Jonathan. D. Jun 16, 2003
| The First Pitch makes for an Excellent 10a. Really fun lead, the crux is probably the first bolt. |
By Richard Rossiter Oct 30, 2003
| FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day. |
By Michael Kullman Sep 19, 2004
| The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section. |
By Luke Evans Sep 7, 2005 rating: 5.12a
| You can do the whole route with a 60m and you don't even get rope drag! The crux seam is AMAZING! |
By Anonymous Coward Sep 9, 2005
| I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park. |
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Aug 28, 2006 rating: 5.11d
| I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb. |
By Robbie the Dog Aug 5, 2007
| I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier... |
By Aeon Aki Administrator Jun 29, 2008
| Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent. |
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Aug 26, 2008
| Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO May 17, 2009
| Good long moves and a tricky crux (although there is a bomber jug to hang out on while you figure it out!) |
By dcohn May 22, 2011
| Tough onsight, but once you unlock the crux, it starts to feel the grade. |
By Bob Rotert Sep 10, 2011 rating: 5.11
| Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the flat hold. |
By BrendanP Sep 1, 2012 rating: 5.11b
| Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps. |
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