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Oceanic Wall
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Leviathan 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. FFA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin
Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Photo of Brett Tischler taken by Tom Lukas half ha...

Description 

This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.



Photos of Leviathan Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Rossiter on Leviathon, Dream Canyon, photo: Bob Horan.
Richard Rossiter on Leviathon, Dream Canyon, photo...
The 10a first pitch on a 38 degree morning in October. Coldest place in Boulder that day?
The 10a first pitch on a 38 degree morning in Octo...
Climber at the two-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Leviathon.  He is doing the climb as one pitch, and is facing the steep crux section just above the anchor.
Climber at the two-bolt anchor atop the first pitc...
Above the crux on the popular 10a "first pitch".
Above the crux on the popular 10a "first pitch".
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Comments on Leviathan Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 1, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp!

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Jun 13, 2003

1st pitch is a fun 10a if you're not an 11 climber, 35-40 feet.

By Jonathan. D.
Jun 16, 2003

The First Pitch makes for an Excellent 10a. Really fun lead, the crux is probably the first bolt.

By Richard Rossiter
Oct 30, 2003

FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day.

By Michael Kullman
Sep 19, 2004

The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section.

By Luke Evans
Sep 7, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

You can do the whole route with a 60m and you don't even get rope drag! The crux seam is AMAZING!

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2005

I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 28, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb.

By Robbie the Dog
Aug 5, 2007

I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier...

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jun 29, 2008

Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Aug 26, 2008

Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2009

Good long moves and a tricky crux (although there is a bomber jug to hang out on while you figure it out!)

By dcohn
May 22, 2011

Tough onsight, but once you unlock the crux, it starts to feel the grade.

By Bob Rotert
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the flat hold.

By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Sep 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.