||Trad, Alpine, 5300', Grade IV
|Original: ||Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Mount, Ralph Calkin - Sept 4 1932|
|Season: ||Spring and Fall|
|Page Views: ||8,305|
|Submitted By: ||Karsten on Feb 1, 2006|
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Marty before heading up the Hourglass
This is a fine route that opens up spectacular views of the Reid glacier and inspiring views of Yokum Ridge.
While technically it doesn't require much more skill than the southside route, the Leuthold's couloir route entails crossing some crevassed terrain and avalanche prone slopes.
The usual start is the same as South side routes. As you pass the Silcox hut begin to gradually trend left heading towards llumination saddle formed by a large noticeable rock on SE side of Mountain. After crossing over the saddle drop down onto the Reid glacier. As you drop down traverse to the right toward Yokum Ridge. Pass several couloirs on the right until you basically hit the steep wall of Yokum ridge. Once there turn right and enter into Leuthold couloir proper. Follow the couloir as it narrows and winds up the mountain. As the couloir ends and opens up continue up easy slopes to the summit ridge and onto the summit.
Descend down southside route.
30m rope, pickets
BETA PHOTO: On summit ridge to summit
Resting on the final stretch
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Leuthold Coulior
Climbers exiting Leuthold couloir
Climbers ascend into Leuthold Couloir with Reid gl...
Crossing the upper Reid glacier. Illumination roc...
By Kyle Tarry
From: Portland, OR
Jan 11, 2016
Route climbed 1/10/2016. Route is in fantastic condition. Reid traverse went easily a couple hundred feet down from I-saddle; up high was icier and had some rock/cliffs, probably due to being earlier in the season. Traverse itself was straightforward, no evidence of crevasses at the top of the glacier. The coulior is in great shape, firm snow and neve the whole length.
By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
May 12, 2012
Route climbed April 21, 2012. Traverse from Illumination Rock to Leuthold Couloir went high due to plenty of snow. Signs of avalanches from previous weeks snowfall were evident as slab. A few fracture lines were visible as well. During the traverse and climb in the couloir I had a mix of compacted snow, ice, neve, hollow snow and sugar. Most of the time it was compacted snow or ice. Beautiful climb.