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P-Wall
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Letterman 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Colin Berry & friend, 1982
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Scott Bullock on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...

Description 

Letterman is the 3rd pitch of P- Crack. From the 2nd belay lead up through a left facing corner. As the corner ends traverse right to the anchors.


Protection 

Pro .5 - 2.5 Bolted belays



Photos of Letterman Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff, in the slick of it on Letterman
Jeff, in the slick of it on Letterman
Comments on Letterman Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 23, 2005

An okay finish to P-Crack. As the photo indicates, two distinct options exist: from the bolted anchor atop P-Crack, either (a) head up and right, passing a single bolt at a small roof and continue up crack to a 2 bolt rap anchor (painted brown), or (b) head up and left off the P-Crack anchor, following left-trending ramp and eventually trending back to the right to the aforementioned anchor.

The paint residue has left the rock slick.

By Jad Josey
May 24, 2005

Does anyone know who added the bolt to Letterman? This section was bolt-free for many years.

By John Knight
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The Letterman bolt was added by "Carrot Top". Sorry I can't remember his real name. I think his first name might have been Ian? Kristin Mc. might know who I'm talking about. He was the same guy that got himself stuck in San Luis Creek Downtown during a flood (he was kayaking w/a buddy). Re: the bolt - he said he thought he was putting up a new variation so he added the bolt. Said he bolted it by hand on lead. Obviously, the variation existed many years before the bolt was added. I think it might have arrived sometime around 2003 or 2004.

By Floyd Hayes
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I led the left option, which was sparsely protected and had a few slick spots, but was relatively easy. While rappelling afterward, the right option looked much more fun and better protected--I'll do it the next time. It seems odd that the two options have the same name because they don't share any holds.

By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

When doing the left variation, there is no pro for the first 15-20 feet off the P-Crack anchor, til you get in the corner. OK route, the paint and lichen result in some slick spots.

By John Knight
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Although you don't get any pro for 15' or 20' off the anchor, it's not that hard (maybe 5.3?). You'd have to pass out to fall. The crux for the left variation, in my opinion, is getting through the slick paint they spilled when they tried to mask over the "P". It's especially tricky when it's foggy! The right "Carrot Top Variation" has one interesting move over a small roof then the fun is sort of over as you work your way up and left through hundreds of years of bat guano.

There's now an interesting harder variation (5.8?) that starts on the "Carrot Top Variation", then continues up and right after clipping a bolt. This variation heads over to the "Jump for Joy" anchors.

All variations have great exposure and get you up to the top of P-Wall for a fun adventure.

By Floyd Hayes
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

But why are the two called variations when they share only a few holds at most? The two are essentially independent lines. Maybe they should be called Letterman and Carrot Top? Now that I've climbed both I like the right option much more.

By John Knight
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Carrot Top? I like it! I will have to change the name in the next e-Guide update. The true Letterman variation definitely goes left. It climbs through the spilled paint of the "P" on "P-Wall". The other variation (aka Carrot Top) is definitely better with the exception of the bat guano. Maybe it's not as bad as it used to be. It's been awhile since I was on it. I like the mini-mantle move above the bolt and the greater exposure of this variation/climb.

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I thought the right option was a great finish to P-Crack. It's a nice 5.6 roof on extremely grippy rock and follows a nice angling crack. Way better than the left option.