|Cochise Dome (What's My Line Dome)
The hardman's way to do What's My Line.
This is a stellar but testy climb and one of the most classic Grossman leads I've belayed (and I've belayed a few of them...)
Rock is good, moves are great but as I recall it's pretty good 5.11 climbing.
This was all hand drilled in one shot.
Just as Steve was getting to where I thought deck out was starting to become an issue, he'd stop and drill a bolt (all 3/8") off some pretty sloping foot holds.
I'm not sure I could have drilled some of these bolts off these stances. They're reminiscent of Marty Woerner's routes at Gnt Mnt and Suicide. No wonder, as Marty was an early mentor of Steve's.
Stellar climb if you're climbing 5.11+ face. If 5.11 face is at your limit, this may be a bit runout for you. I do believe it's a safe route, just not a sport route, but certainly sporty.
Second pitch joins the direct start to WML. Runout 5.8 for the second pitch then onto the enjoyable easy ground of WML.
Thrash to true base of the WML wall and find the bolts. Read Dave's description of the first pitch below. My recollection is the start was fairly obvious.
Bolts on first pitch, then slings, etc... of WML. You might want a few nuts to see if you can get anything on the 2nd pitch of WML.
Looking up at the blank second pitch
Jimbo suiting up at the base of the climb
Looking back from the top of pitch 2
Looking down from midway up pitch 4
|By David Baltz|
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sep 20, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R
A devious 5.9 pitch leads up to the actual start on a ledge near the first bolts. This is an excellent thin face start to WML. The "R" section is well above the hard stuff, but still a deck-out potential.
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R
This is a highly recommended climb that takes some commitment. There are some runouts on easier terrain. Amazing ground up lead by Steve for sure. The 3/8" bolts are still in good condition save three leeper hangers which could be swapped out with new hangers.
Stoppers, singles through green camalot, and doubles from red through blue camalot is plenty of gear. Bring some slings for slinging chickenheads.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 40'). Start at a diving-board like boulder at the base of the cliff. (See topo). Pull up to a ledge with some smaller boulders, traverse left to a bolt, and then make a few moves up and left to a ledge. Traverse left and slightly down to an old tree.
Pitch 2 (5.11c R, 170'). Follow four bolts past difficult and committing climbing. After the fourth bolt run it out up and slightly left along the path of least resistance to a final bolt (difficult to see), then head up and right into a chickenhead patch and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (5.9, 150'). Climb straight up, join What's My Line, stopping at a three bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.11, 165'). Head up and right along chickenheads until you see a bolt in a prominent water streak on your left. Sling a bomber chickenhead and work your way left and up to the bolt (5.11). Clip the bolt and make more difficult moves left and slightly down to a flared crack. Climb the left-angling crack (the pro is a bit poor). When the crack seams out work up to the roof, protect, and move left and up to a comfortable belay. Good gear can be found about 10' above the stance in a crack, extend the belay down to be comfortable.
Pitch 5 (5.9, 80'). Follow the crack up and right. Make a couple of thin moves around to the right to join What's My Line to the top.
If you want a topo for this route just PM me.
--- Invalid image id: 108531913 ---
Jan 4, 2013
Good climbing but not for the weak hearted. My thanks to Geir for leading the two crux pitches so I could have a safe and fun time on this route. There are some sketchy flakes on the 5.11 bit on the second pitch, and the rock quality in the crack section of pitch four is less than inspiring, making for less than optimal gear placements.