|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 225'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson|
|Submitted By:||Paul Davidson on Aug 14, 2008|
|Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Let's Make a Deal||Add Comment|
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By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sep 20, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
|A devious 5.9 pitch leads up to the actual start on a ledge near the first bolts. This is an excellent thin face start to WML. The "R" section is well above the hard stuff, but still a deck-out potential.|
By Paul Davidson
Sep 26, 2008
That's right Dave...
I forgot all about that gritty little first pitch.
Scritchy mantel as I now think I recall.
My lead, you'd think I might remember but relative to
the next pitch...
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
This is a highly recommended climb that takes some commitment. There are some runouts on easier terrain. Amazing ground up lead by Steve for sure. The 3/8" bolts are still in good condition save three leeper hangers which could be swapped out with new hangers.
Stoppers, singles through green camalot, and doubles from red through blue camalot is plenty of gear. Bring some slings for slinging chickenheads.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 40'). Start at a diving-board like boulder at the base of the cliff. (See topo). Pull up to a ledge with some smaller boulders, traverse left to a bolt, and then make a few moves up and left to a ledge. Traverse left and slightly down to an old tree.
Pitch 2 (5.11c R, 170'). Follow four bolts past difficult and committing climbing. After the fourth bolt run it out up and slightly left along the path of least resistance to a final bolt (difficult to see), then head up and right into a chickenhead patch and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (5.9, 150'). Climb straight up, join What's My Line, stopping at a three bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.11, 165'). Head up and right along chickenheads until you see a bolt in a prominent water streak on your left. Sling a bomber chickenhead and work your way left and up to the bolt (5.11). Clip the bolt and make more difficult moves left and slightly down to a flared crack. Climb the left-angling crack (the pro is a bit poor). When the crack seams out work up to the roof, protect, and move left and up to a comfortable belay. Good gear can be found about 10' above the stance in a crack, extend the belay down to be comfortable.
Pitch 5 (5.9, 80'). Follow the crack up and right. Make a couple of thin moves around to the right to join What's My Line to the top.
If you want a topo for this route just PM me.
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Jan 4, 2013
|Good climbing but not for the weak hearted. My thanks to Geir for leading the two crux pitches so I could have a safe and fun time on this route. There are some sketchy flakes on the 5.11 bit on the second pitch, and the rock quality in the crack section of pitch four is less than inspiring, making for less than optimal gear placements.|