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(3) Red Wall
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Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? 
Mr. Bentley 
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Sheer Energy 
Sheer Stress 
Shoot From the Hip 
Thai Stick 

Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008
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Description 

This route lies between Red Eye and Critical Mass. It ascends up a skiny black streak, using edges and slopers. The crux comes just after the second clip and consists of a hard sloper move, but some tricky crimps just before are hard too. Approach from Thai Stick or Mr. Bentley and clip the bolt left of the Thai Stick anchors or the anchors themselves. The next bolt is a bit spooky and hard to clip. Finish the route to the Red Eye anchors or into Kashmir. There is a piton between the last bolt and the Red Eye anchors.


Location 

The route is located on the Red Wall, just above Thai Stick.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By peachy spohn
Sep 15, 2008

After the sloper "crux" it is possible to reach out right to a large hold on Critical Mass. This makes the route easier, because one can shake out and chalk up. The route through this section is therefore contrived...the grade given represents moving through the route without the hold to the right. Either way, it is still a fun and energetic route.