Let It Slide
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By hiking, scrambling, or climbing, reach the lower southeast corner of the magnificent south side of the summit face of diamond head. A large horizontal crack rises from the East to west, effectively bisecting the face. From the horizontal (diagonal, if you prefer) crack, two vertical cracks rise, one after a 40' traverse to the west on the horizontal, and one after an 80' traverse. Each of these has a very small stunted tree 1/2 way up to the top.
Let it slide ascends the face between the two cracks, starting about 10' to the right (east) of Let It Rock, and ascending up and right to a point some 15' to the right of the end of the crack of Let It Rock.
This route was established via an on-sight top-rope down climb... and then climbed back up. The nature of the climbing is FABULOUS solid face climbing, although there are a few holds that are not secure. If this route were close to the trailhead, it would become popular. Headpointing the route would also be possible, but it would improved with a few pieces of fixed gear (bolts). Although I frequently runout or solo 5.9, after the TR-downclimb, I declined to "lead" (solo) the line, choosing instead ti "let it slide."
For the record, the FA party has no objection to retro-bolting the line until such time as it is lead without gear. That is, if permission can ever be gained. The view from the summit is a 360 degree panorama, including Eldora Ski resort to the west, and the back side of the Magnificent Devil's thumb, the Matron, the Tower Of The Moon, and Jamcrack Spire, all to the East.
To descend, rap down to the horizontal crack for another stellar route, rap from the anchors near the summit on Shibumi, or scramble/walk off to either side.
This pitch is rated X and has no gear. Take a few pieces for the belays or TR it from the ledge above Let It Rock or Let IT Roll. As of this writing, this sketch-fest has not been lead.
By Jason Haas
May 6, 2008
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble.
Also, I now see that you rated this thing 5.9 Tony, thanks for the sandbag while I was soloing :) Best route of the three up there.