By hiking, scrambling, or climbing, reach the lower southeast corner of the magnificent south side of the summit face of diamond head. A large horizontal crack rises from the East to west, effectively bisecting the face. From the horizontal (diagonal, if you prefer) crack, two vertical cracks rise, one after a 40' traverse to the west on the horizontal, and one after an 80' traverse. Each of these has a very small stunted tree 1/2 way up to the top.
The second crack left, about 80' left of the edge of the sumit face, and not quite to the base of the arete, is Let It Rock. This clean and solid crack is fairly short, but very good and well protected. Climb it to the sumit ledge of the crag.
The view from the summit is a 360 degree panorama, including Eldora Ski resort to the west, and the back side of the Magnificent Devil's thumb, the Matron, the Tower Of The Moon, and Jamcrack Spire, all to the East.
To descend, rap down to the horizontal crack for another stellar route, rap from the anchors near the sumit on Shibumi, or scamble/wall off. to either side.
Light Rack. - a few nuts and cams
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
May 6, 2008
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble.