L'Escamarla  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Onsighting the stellar "L'Escamarla", 7c+ (5.13a).

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Description 

La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier.

Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.

Location 

This route is located in the left group of routes, and begins from the first terrace. This is the first line of bolts that touches down to the first terrace after passing the iron ladder. This route shares the slab start with Ramadan, then moves right up the bulge.

Protection 

Many bolts, to 2 BA. Stick clip highly recommended.

Photos of L'Escamarla Slideshow

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Nearing the thin crux of L'Escamarla.

Markus starting up the towering line. The route c...