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La Siuranella
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L'Escamarla S 
Pocapena S 

L'Escamarla 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Page Views: 805
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Onsighting the stellar "L'Escamarla", 7c+ (5.13a).

Description 

La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier.

Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.


Location 

This route is located in the left group of routes, and begins from the first terrace. This is the first line of bolts that touches down to the first terrace after passing the iron ladder. This route shares the slab start with Ramadan, then moves right up the bulge.


Protection 

Many bolts, to 2 BA. Stick clip highly recommended.



Photos of L'Escamarla Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the thin crux of L'Escamarla.
Nearing the thin crux of L'Escamarla.
Markus starting up the towering line.  The route climbs the right side of the orange streak, weaving in and out onto the gray streak to the right, to finish just below the high triangular roof.
Markus starting up the towering line. The route c...
Comments on L'Escamarla Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 9, 2009

From the ground it looks like it might be possible to climb over to the large bushy ledge around the 3rd or 4th bolt for a no-hands rest. However, when I was on the route, it didn't seem like the holds go that way, and I didn't see any chalk heading that way, so it seems like most climbers agree the ledge is "off". I'm not sure it would affect the difficulty very much, since it comes pretty early in the route, but it would certainly reduce the quality of the route.