Les Cinq Ânes   5.7+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  The five asses. 1935. Season:  dry (spring through fall best) Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Feb 11, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A ways off the pitch 1 belay, prior to the travers...

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Description 

An undeniable classic. Les Cinq Ânes has fantastic exposure and phenominal position as it climbs up the steep, main prow of the formation.

Pitch 1: scramble on low angle rock, gaining the lower angle ridge crest and rising up to the right towards steeper ground. Step to the left and climb a corner system which morphs into a chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney. Around 90 feet long.

Pitch 2: climb on bucket holds up and to the right. Traverse to the right gaining the arête (whoo hoo!). Follow deep cracks to the right of the arête to an improbable belay perch. 90 feet.

Now what?

Finish on several options: La Traversée Bourgeois (4a), La Fissure des Cinq Ânes (6a+), or Le Tour de Cochon (5c).

Location 

Route is located at the bottom of the main prow of the buttress. Find an easy looking ridge of rock, ascend up this to the steeper corner system.

When in doubt, follow the polished rock!

By carrying all the kit, climbers can finish by hiking up for a short ways to the road and back to the parking area.

Protection 

Fixed gear including a variety of glued in bolts. Fixed belay stations. Some medium sized nuts/cams may prove comforting as the distance between the bolts can be a bit daunting on the slippery rock.

Photos of Les Cinq Ânes Slideshow

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Matt finishing up the short chimney leading to the...

Crack on the right side of the prow leading to the...