||Trad, 8 pitches, 860', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Marc Purtier & Bernard Taillefer 1 Feb ‘53|
|Season: ||spring and fall are the popular seasons|
|Page Views: ||1,460|
|Submitted By: ||Brian in SLC on Mar 15, 2010|
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Les Buis pitch 6
This is a fun, classic route which follows natural weaknesses in the cliff while maintaining exposed positions.
P1: Start by climbing up to the left leaning ramp and follow that, past an intermediate belay (for the route La Dame de Coeur, etc) and traverse nearly straight left to a belay at the base of a large right facing corner. 5.5 40m.
P2: Climb the corner and belay at the top of the dihedral. 5.6 30m.
P3: Move up to the right and climb the right facing dihedral belaying at its top, below the large horizontal ledge just above. 5.8 25m.
P4: Climb up to the ledge, noting the belay straight up below a steep roof, and traverse straight left across on the narrow, airy path. Aim for a prominent right facing corner with a steep, right slanting start. 5.5 30m.
P5: Step up on steep terrain, and gain the right facing corner. Follow corner to top and pull out slightly left to belay station. 5.8 30m.
P6: Up face to chimney which morphs into a steep right facing corner slot. Step back right near the top on a brilliant gray limestone face. Belay on shallow ledge. 5.8 30m.
P7: Up right- facing corner with deep crack. Follow weaknesses up to large “comfortable promontory .“ 5.7 30m.
P8: Scramble up bushy terrain to steeper face. Up face to rim and top of route. Only pitch without fixed protection and fixed belay anchor. Scramble to plateau. 5.7 40m.
Follow climbers trail to the north which connect to a road leading north (and slightly west) to the parking lot right off the D292 road.
Follow the trail down from the D292 road from the parking lot. Walk down past the west face. As the cliff transitions to south-facing, walk east passing under the Béatrix Pillar and the deep chimney on it’s right side. Traverse to the right aiming towards a lower angle right facing corner that leans back to the left. The name Les Buis should be marked above and a bolt barely visible around 4 m up the route.
Set of stoppers, Camalots .5 through 3 (or equivalent), 10 quickdraws, 4 shoulder length slings (biners to match). Helmet prudent.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Les Buis. Jon at first bolt.
Les Buis pitch 4 traverse. Jon tosses in a "...
BETA PHOTO: Les Buis approximate line of ascent