Leprechaun Promenade 5.10b R
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Griffith / Guerin '81 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Jan 21, 2002 |
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Chris Parks follows up on 'Leprechaun Promenade (1...
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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Flatirons Climbing CouncilPreserving climbing access in the Flatirons
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Description This route is located directly on the standard rappel line of the west side of Fiddlehead summit. It was probably climbed as a top rope problem long before bolts appeared. This is a beautiful face with nice edges, but there is ground fall potential on clipping all three of the bolts. A few small RPs after the 2nd bolt might keep you off the ground. (3 stars as a TR, 2 stars as a sport climb.) Descent: Rap 60 feet off of slings.
Protection 3 draws and maybe some RPs. Per Neil Chelton: to make it not R-rated, bring small cams and nuts.
Jesse on the sharp end, working the upper portion ...
| Great rock with fun moves. Photo: Roth.
| Tron-sight, Mark Roth.
| Kat A. leads through the second pitch crux heel-ho...
| From Pallaea.
| Neil Chelton crimping up Leprechaun Promenade.
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| Comments on Leprechaun Promenade |
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By Art Veenendaal Jan 12, 2004
| A bomber purple Camalot can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt in a 1" seam that angles up and right...the further right you place the piece, the higher it will be. A yellow Alien can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt in an obvious pocket. Both gear placements make the climb very safe. The only real danger is making the first clip.... |
By Jason Haas From: Broomfield, CO Sep 1, 2008
| Matt Samet and I replaced all three bolts on this route today 9/1/08 with beefy 1/2" ARI stainless. Please support the ARI if you don't already. Also, this route would benefit from a real bolted anchor up top rather than the shotty slung block on the ledge. My two cents anyway. |
By Aaron Martinuzzi Sep 25, 2009
| This route has a second pitch that ascends the roof and face above the initial top-out ledge. clamber up beneath a big flake and roof, place some gear, and yard over - 9+/10a, very fun and very well-protected. The face above has a good bit of lichen, but the climbing is very easy, probably 5.8 on chicken heads. There is currently a three-sling anchor near the top of this second pitch that allows for a ~33m rappel back to the base of the wall. If you're spending some time on this little wall, the second pitch is well worth doing. |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Oct 3, 2009
| Really fun face climbing! There is definitely gear between the bolts, and it is not "R" at all. |
By neil chelton From: Boulder, CO Oct 30, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| It's 'R' rated if you only take 3 quick-draws up there. However, theres at least 2 good gear placements between each bolt and after the last bolt. Bring small cams and nuts. |
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