This route is located directly on the standard rappel line of the west side of Fiddlehead summit. It was probably climbed as a top rope problem long before bolts appeared.
This is a beautiful face with nice edges, but there is ground fall potential on clipping all three of the bolts. A few small RPs after the 2nd bolt might keep you off the ground. (3 stars as a TR, 2 stars as a sport climb.)
Descent: Rap 60 feet off of slings.
3 draws and maybe some RPs.
Per Neil Chelton: to make it not R-rated, bring small cams and nuts.
Jesse on the sharp end, working the upper portion ...
Great rock with fun moves.
Kat A. leads through the second pitch crux heel-ho...
Tron-sight, Mark Roth.
Neil Chelton crimping up Leprechaun Promenade.
|By Art Veenendaal|
Jan 12, 2004
A bomber purple Camalot can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt in a 1" seam that angles up and right...the further right you place the piece, the higher it will be. A yellow Alien can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt in an obvious pocket. Both gear placements make the climb very safe. The only real danger is making the first clip....
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 1, 2008
Matt Samet and I replaced all three bolts on this route today 9/1/08 with beefy 1/2" ARI stainless. Please support the ARI if you don't already. Also, this route would benefit from a real bolted anchor up top rather than the shotty slung block on the ledge. My two cents anyway.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Sep 25, 2009
This route has a second pitch that ascends the roof and face above the initial top-out ledge. clamber up beneath a big flake and roof, place some gear, and yard over - 9+/10a, very fun and very well-protected. The face above has a good bit of lichen, but the climbing is very easy, probably 5.8 on chicken heads. There is currently a three-sling anchor near the top of this second pitch that allows for a ~33m rappel back to the base of the wall. If you're spending some time on this little wall, the second pitch is well worth doing.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Oct 3, 2009
Really fun face climbing! There is definitely gear between the bolts, and it is not "R" at all.
|By neil chelton|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's 'R' rated if you only take 3 quick-draws up there. However, theres at least 2 good gear placements between each bolt and after the last bolt. Bring small cams and nuts.