P1) The first 20 ft can be protected with TCU #1, a couple nuts and #.04 camalot. Arrive on small ledge and climb Slopy slab past three bolts (crux) mantle ledge and arrive at a two bolt anchor(80 ft)(5.9+?). This pitch is shared with Jimmy Durante.
P2) Do not follow bolts up Jimmy Durante. Traverse left 15 ft into a crack system and continue up a flared out crack. Once on top of the flared crack, belay here with two #2 and one #3 camalots (5.9)(90 ft).
P3) Scrambling to 5.6. Arrive and share 3-bolt anchor with Jimmy Durante (160 ft)
The route can be found by taking Jenny's Canyon trail for no more than a couple minutes. Once the trail comes within feet of the sandstone formation, look left and up on the wall for some bolts and start here. This Route shares the first pitch with Jimmy Durante. Getting down- Walk north past the base of leopard skin and down the designated climbers trail.
1-TCU #1 or C3 #1
1- 60m rope
BETA PHOTO: Take Jenny's Canyon trail
|By Stevie Nacho|
Dec 16, 2011
Are the hoops and red tape still being implemented in Snow Canyon conerning first ascents? When I was climbing there, I had to submit a potential first ascent to a climbing advisory board. They would decide whether or not the route could be approved if fixed anchors were to be drilled. All of the routes I submitted were approved however a friend of mine was denied on one. Is that how is still is?
|By Dan L|
From: Moab, UT
Dec 17, 2011
Jimmy Durante is the only route with fixed anchors and pitons; put up who-knows when.. Leopard's tail is gear only, sharing the first pitch with Jimmy Durante.. not the same restrictions.