Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sand Dunes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fragments of Floyd S 
Gratitude S 
Jimmy Durante S 
Kibosch Buttress T,S 
Leopard Skin T,S 
Leopard's Tail T,S 
Stepping Out T,S 
Stranger Than Friction S 
Thousand Pints of Lite S 
Twist and Shout S 
What's New Pussycat? S 

Leopard Skin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 7,768
Submitted By: Mary Ellen Man on Nov 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Amazing February climbing! Taken from the belay st...

Description 

Can be done in 3 pitches with a 50m rope - but 4 will reduce the rope drag.

Route Description update as of 11/13/10. The route has been rebolted there are only about five pitons left, otherwise all new bolts with 3 bolt belay stations. The first belay station above the crack was removed so the climb is nows three pitches.

P1: Climb the slab past 2 pitons to gain access to the left facing corner crack. Climb to the top of the crack then traverse about ten feet to the left on the slab above the crack to the first bolt then fallow the bolt line straight up to the first belay. I did not have much rope left on my 60m rope but you might be able to use a 50m if your belayer climbs up the easy slab a litle bit.

P2&3: Follow the bolt lines straight up to the top.

The Descent: You can rap the gulley/chimney to the south then you will see two rap anchors in the top of another chimney which will rap to the top of the science of friction 1 more rap takes you to the ground.

Protection 

Medium cam for the opening moves (#3 Camalot works). I've watched people back off the climb all together because they only brought draws. Pitons placed on lead.

Pro: Take more than a #3 cam unless you want to run it out 40 feet to the first bolt I would recomend a #3 or #2 cam, large stopper or medium hex, and a set of tcu's. quick draws and a couple extra slings. 1 60m rope.

Location 

Lepord Skin is about 100 feet right of Gratitude.


Photos of Leopard Skin Slideshow Add Photo
Alex working up the fantastic pitch 3 back in the salad days.
Alex working up the fantastic pitch 3 back in the ...
Sand Dunes Area
Sand Dunes Area
Sand Dunes Area
Sand Dunes Area
Renee Chi at the anchors on P2
Renee Chi at the anchors on P2

Comments on Leopard Skin Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 3, 2014
By S. O.
From: logan,ut
Oct 8, 2007

Incredible climb. Pitch 2 is memorable. Trad pro for pitch 1 is a #3 camalot. The climbing isn't too hard, so if you handle a little runout of 5.5 terrain, you'll be fine.
By Dan L
From: ZION
Dec 13, 2008

Fun climb. Easy climbing.... but on 2nd pitch there is a bolt run out about 25 feet on 5.7, just be careful. you don't want a 50 ft whipper.
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2010

The route was a little hard to find from the description; kind of like an economic incentive kind of thing as I went back to town and bought a guidebook from the local climbing store. Things went OK after that. Well, if you are looking for how to get on this route, take a look at the beta photo of the Sand Dunes. I can assure you that the route is located somewhere in the photo!
It is really an awesome line. I mean like totally awesome! Can't say enough good about the route; go do it. The Desert Rat, located at the Intersection of Bluff and St. George Blvd., is a good shop to purchase a guidebook from.
St. George was an awesome host city for the Ironman too!
By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Gratitude is about 100 feet to the left of leapord skin and has white bolts.

My wife(Kim) and I (Sean Hansen) loved this climb and would highly recomend it.
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Dec 16, 2010

Super fun moderate. I'm a bit confused as why the belay above the crack was removed. It is a fine belay ledge that was a perfect spot to watch the leader sneak out pitch two. Maybe I've always climbed this differently- but now I'll probably just drag up a bit more gear to still use a belay there. Anyhow, thanks to _____ for the replaced bolts.
By Sisyphus
From: here and there
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The belay bolts on the pillar are still there. The above description is wrong. Leopard skin and gratitude share the same start, with leopard skin heading right to the crack and to the top of the pillar.

The start described above is an older variation that is a bit harder than the original, and climbs up the ramp into the shallow left facing corner(about 100' to the right of the established start) and finishes at the top of the second pitch as described above.

By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I was in this area on 10/22/11 and I did not see the belay anchors at the top of the crack on leapord skin. How ever I did locate the bolts that traverse from the start of leapord skin to grattitude. I would clip the first pin and then follow the flake up and left to the black bolts and first set of anchors. there is an optional direct start to grattatude about 100 feet to the left of lepord skin with bolts starting from the ground.
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Feb 28, 2012

This is a fantastic easy and quick multi-pitch. We went from car, to car in under 3 hours and we were taking our sweet time. After a day climbing harder stuff this is like dessert. You get way more out of this one as far as exposure and view for how little you have to put into it.
By Patrick Stark
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 4, 2013

Judging from the comments it looks like there are two possible starts to the route. T.G.'s guidebook starts the route on the left side of the wall in a chalked up right facing corner (same start as Gratitude) breaking left after two (maybe 3?) bolts and then heading up a crack to a sweet belay ledge with anchors hidden from the ground. Second pitch traverses to the right (obvious from belay and shown in photos of the route) and then up to the anchors. A single rope will get you up and down the route.
By Suzanne Wilson 1
From: Placentia, California
Nov 16, 2013

The rap bolts on the second rap station don't appear to be super solid as the bolt hangars flex when rappelling. We used them, but an upgrade sure would be beneficial.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2013

If you have a 70 m rope, you can run the last two pitches together (make sure to sling everything long). It also makes the first rappel a lot more comfortable with a little extra rope.

The "new" pitch 1 variation (two bolts to a hand crack) was the best pitch of the route. A lot of variety-- but don't take it for granted. Extremely sandy and some awkward moves made it feel a little hard for the grade and particularly insecure at times. Take a #1, 2, & 3 plus a few small nuts and you'll be golden. Leaders climbing well above the grade won't need any supplemental gear on the other pitches.
By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If someone does not beat me to it I will change out the anchor on the second rappel.