|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Wright & Moore, 1988|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on Mar 14, 2003|
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|Comments on Leonine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 22, 2004
|Definitely two stars.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
2 stars as an adventure climb, one for actual quality. The climb is long (190' perhaps) and goes up a steep and exposed crack and face system. The gear down low is reasonable with moves upto perhaps 9+ to the roof, which felt like 10a. The upper half had bolts that are adequately placed without being crowded. The climbing wanders a little, but this is the nature of such routes. With a set of longer slings, there should be no problem.
The bottom is distinguished not by its well-traveled features (it doesn't look traveled), but by being below an obvious crack leading to an obvious dihedral, a small shrub lives on the system, perhaps 50' up before the first little bulge. For a brief time, we wondered if I was on-route. At the final roof I was able to lean back and see the first bolt, and only then were we certain.
We climbed the route in mid-to-low 40 degree temps this am and froze. We mistook Rossiter's book description to imply that a belay would be found mid route, and when I reached the first bolt I had no slings left, just 4 biners. 4 biners, 4 bolts. The route definitely deserves to be done as a single pitch, but not on single ovals clipped to the bolts and with a lot of drag.
Rack: A single set of stoppers, a single set of cams, and a dozen slings.
One more warning. There was an abondoned HUGE bee colony (perhaps a few square feet of honeycomb) in a diagonal slot just left of the 4th bolt. Nobody was home, but they may return when the weather warms up. This is perhaps only 5 feet from the bolt. Beware.
By Luke Clarke
Apr 2, 2006
|I would add that I think Tony means the features on the lower part of the climb do not appear well traveled. Two hamburger sized handholds came off in my right hand, terrifying me on lead, and some of the rock has a gritty, friable surface that makes any sloping footholds a little nervy. I rigged a belay at 100 feet (apparently bypassing the one Rossiter's guide suggests at 60 feet), just below the roof, but my partner freaked when he saw the gear and the rock making up the anchor -- six pieces, most of it in fairly solid rock. Above the roof, the quality of the rock changed dramatically for the better. Little crimps and a dinner plate flake were solid and the climbing a lot more enjoyable. Second to Tony's suggestion, do it as one long pitch without an intermediate belay. You won't need much gear beyond the roof, but Ivan Rezucha got an RP in low and it looked like you might get a small cam (blue Alien?) in an undercling above the 4th bolt, but that's about where the difficulty ends.|