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Leonids 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 12,987
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Feb 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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6.9.12::@ the 1st pitch. Gorgeous day!!
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is pretty straight forward. The route starts left of a 20 ft tower of blocks.

P1: (5.9) Clip the first bolt from atop the blocks and follow the bolt line up and right for approximately 170 ft to a hanging belay. A slightly steeper section right before the anchor may be considered the crux of the climb.

P2: (5.9) Continue climbing up and right past another dozen of so bolts, clipping an anchor bolt along the way, to a comfortable belay ledge. The anchor is positioned about 10 ft left of the route's line.

P3: (5.9) The route finishes up a short ramp up and right from the belay ledge.

Descent: Rappel a short distance down to a prominent tower. From the tower rappel down through four more stations to the ground.


Protection 

Highly Recommend: 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, 6 apline quickdraws, and a helmet.



Photos of Leonids Slideshow Add Photo
Beneath Triton Tower
BETA PHOTO: Beneath Triton Tower
Ramon enjoying the hanging belay at P1 on Leonids.
Ramon enjoying the hanging belay at P1 on Leonids.
ECM Left Wall, climbers on Leonids (5.9)
ECM Left Wall, climbers on Leonids (5.9)
Nearing first belay
Nearing first belay
Cruisin' Leonids, like a boss!
Cruisin' Leonids, like a boss!
Three man party attack
Three man party attack
6.9.12::@ the 1st pitch belay station
6.9.12::@ the 1st pitch belay station
6.9.12::Misty, cool and foggy morning @ ECM
6.9.12::Misty, cool and foggy morning @ ECM
Misty morning @ ECM - Leonids and Triton P1 starts just left of the white streak
Misty morning @ ECM - Leonids and Triton P1 starts...
The rope showing pitch 1 as looking down from the semi-hanging belay.
BETA PHOTO: The rope showing pitch 1 as looking down from the ...
Pitch II of Leonids. Photo by Claudio Ricardez.
Pitch II of Leonids. Photo by Claudio Ricardez.
At top of pitch 2 looking down with the rope indicating the route.   It is roughly 130 ft.
BETA PHOTO: At top of pitch 2 looking down with the rope indic...
Chris Lane leading Leonids.
Chris Lane leading Leonids.
Top of the 3rd pitch at the good ledge.  You can see the last bolt before the anchor on the left.  It's a traverse pitch that is technical but well protected.
BETA PHOTO: Top of the 3rd pitch at the good ledge. You can s...
Comments on Leonids Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2014
By ccross
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 25, 2009

You no longer clip the anchor to Meteor on P2. Someone added a bolt for Leonids a few feet left of that anchor. It took us 4 rappels with a single 60m rope to get to the ground instead of 5. From the top, we skipped the anchor at the top of the Triton Tower and rappeled to the mid anchor on Triton, then the low anchor on Triton, overhang rappel and a little left, last one to the ground.

By saltlick
From: the bedroom
Oct 18, 2010

I wouldn't climb this without a helmet - plenty of ready-to-snap micro flakes and a few larger hollow bits - but it borders on over-bolted...

By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 26, 2010

I had a great time on this route... lots of fun.

By Josh Cameron
Mar 8, 2011

The guide book says the crux is the steep section at the end of the first pitch, but I felt like it was the last half of the second pitch. It's more technical, sustained, and exposed. As my friend said, "Pitch 2 is the money pitch."

By GoBoy
Mar 20, 2011

The best 5.9 in san diego IMO, great for a 1st multipitch.

By James Harper
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

When rappelling off the overhang of Triton's Tower, be sure to go off the east side. The rappel is much more intense, more exposed and more fun. A great ending to a great climb!

By Sean Haney
Jul 25, 2011

Climbed the first 2 pitches (ran out of time) yesterday (7-24-11) and it was great! FYI on the distances of pitches: they seem shorter than indicated above, and you are always sufficiently close to a rap route to the ground in case your second can't make it (a concern I had yesterday). The Metolius rap hangers at the top of P2 are a bit rusty. No cracks or spinning, and the bolts themselves look great, but I just thought I'd let others judge whether or not this warrants replacement.

Rusty Metolius rap hanger at the top of P2.
Rusty Metolius rap hanger at the top of P2.

By Ming
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Climbed it on 5/4/2012. Absolutely loved it! Rock is clean and very well bolted! A slabby technical start immediately wakes you up after the first 2 bolts, and then it steepens to some very nice face climbing. This continues up the seconds pitch and just as I was getting comfy and use to the climbing style the 3rd traverse pitch totally switched it up! I love the exposure as I used the undercling on the slab and then stepped out to the good foot before getting to the ledge - it was soooo fun! As good as any climb I've done all over the world. Definitely a 4 start route. Though my toe was sore from the slab and small edging, it was totally worth it.

Sitting on the ledge of P3 and having lunch.
Sitting on the ledge of P3 and having lunch.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jun 17, 2012

Was only able to lead the 1st pitch that day. Super fun!! Was lucky enough to time the hike early. Misty, cool and foggy morning!

By Will P.
Nov 4, 2012

Tons of bolts and super fun. P2 seemed the toughest.

By Ryan Shockey
From: Dana Point
Jun 21, 2013

Did all 3 pitches on June 4th. Had a blast, definitely worth the stout approach (temps permitting) Great sweeping views of Alpine, el cajon, and even the Coronado islands on a clear day.

Please take note...

2nd belay station has a loose nut on the right metolious hanger. *The threads are smashed at the top so there is no way the nut will come off the 1/2" bolt. It is safe but should be engaged on the hanger to prevent undue wear. If your heading up bring an adjustable wrench and give it a wee tightening. I emailed the guys at allied climbers of San Diego, they said it was still bomber and recommended I post this in hopes the next team up might remember to bring a wrench. If you are not familiar with the mechanics of a bolt please read up before tightening. Its actually safer as is than if you were to over tighten, this could likely cause the bolt to partialy pull out of the stone making it much more sketchy in the case of a dynamic event in particular. It just needs to engage the hanger then an 1/8 to 1/4 turn beyond. If you are not comfortable taking care of this just leave it.

Post if you fix it, post if you don't and it still needs attention. Ill be up there again after summer so if need be I will take care of it myself.

See you at the top!

-Ryan Shockey

By Tor Andre Skjelbakken
From: La Jolla
Sep 28, 2013

I did the route Sept 21. and tightened the loose hanger on 2nd belay station.
It is OK now.

Nice route, BTW...

Tor Andre Skjelbakken
(visiting Norwegian climber)

By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Apr 1, 2014

I hesitate to add more praise for this route because there are so many other good moderates up there, but after doing this for about the 10th time today it was clear that…yes, its worth doing 10x, and I'm sure I'll do it many more. Years ago, I think a circulating PDF had p3 at 5.7, which would catch you by surprise. Although short and adds some raps, I always do p3 as its improbable/thoughtful. Thanks to all the FA's for all their hard, and no doubt hot, work up on ECM.