Leonids 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Brian Spiewak |
| Submitted By: | Marc Kajut on Feb 2, 2006 |
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ECM Left Wall, climbers on Leonids (5.9)
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb is pretty straight forward. The route starts left of a 20 ft tower of blocks.
P1: (5.9) Clip the first bolt from atop the blocks and follow the bolt line up and right for approximately 170 ft to a hanging belay. A slightly steeper section right before the anchor may be considered the crux of the climb.
P2: (5.9) Continue climbing up and right past another dozen of so bolts, clipping an anchor bolt along the way, to a comfortable belay ledge. The anchor is positioned about 10 ft left of the route's line.
P3: (5.9) The route finishes up a short ramp up and right from the belay ledge.
Descent: Rappel a short distance down to a prominent tower. From the tower rappel down through four more stations to the ground.
Protection Highly Recommend: 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, 6 apline quickdraws, and a helmet.
Ramon enjoying the hanging belay at P1 on Leonids.
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Nearing first belay
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Three man party attack
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Misty morning @ ECM - Leonids and Triton P1 starts...
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BETA PHOTO: The rope showing pitch 1 as looking down from the ...
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BETA PHOTO: At top of pitch 2 looking down with the rope indic...
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BETA PHOTO: Top of the 3rd pitch at the good ledge. You can s...
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6.9.12::Misty, cool and foggy morning @ ECM
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6.9.12::@ the 1st pitch. Gorgeous day!!
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6.9.12::@ the 1st pitch belay station
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Pitch II of Leonids. Photo by Claudio Ricardez.
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Cruisin' Leonids, like a boss!
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By ccross
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 25, 2009
| You no longer clip the anchor to Meteor on P2. Someone added a bolt for Leonids a few feet left of that anchor. It took us 4 rappels with a single 60m rope to get to the ground instead of 5. From the top, we skipped the anchor at the top of the Triton Tower and rappeled to the mid anchor on Triton, then the low anchor on Triton, overhang rappel and a little left, last one to the ground. |
By saltlick
From: the bedroom
Oct 18, 2010
| I wouldn't climb this without a helmet - plenty of ready-to-snap micro flakes and a few larger hollow bits - but it borders on over-bolted... |
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 26, 2010
| I had a great time on this route... lots of fun. |
By Josh Cameron
Mar 8, 2011
| The guide book says the crux is the steep section at the end of the first pitch, but I felt like it was the last half of the second pitch. It's more technical, sustained, and exposed. As my friend said, "Pitch 2 is the money pitch." |
By GoBoy
Mar 20, 2011
| The best 5.9 in san diego IMO, great for a 1st multipitch. |
By James Harper
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.9
| When rappelling off the overhang of Triton's Tower, be sure to go off the east side. The rappel is much more intense, more exposed and more fun. A great ending to a great climb! |
By Sean Haney
Jul 25, 2011
| Climbed the first 2 pitches (ran out of time) yesterday (7-24-11) and it was great! FYI on the distances of pitches: they seem shorter than indicated above, and you are always sufficiently close to a rap route to the ground in case your second can't make it (a concern I had yesterday). The Metolius rap hangers at the top of P2 are a bit rusty. No cracks or spinning, and the bolts themselves look great, but I just thought I'd let others judge whether or not this warrants replacement.
| Rusty Metolius rap hanger at the top of P2.
Submitted By: Sean Haney on Jul 25, 2011
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By Ming
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Climbed it on 5/4/2012. Absolutely loved it! Rock is clean and very well bolted! A slabby technical start immediately wakes you up after the first 2 bolts, and then it steepens to some very nice face climbing. This continues up the seconds pitch and just as I was getting comfy and use to the climbing style the 3rd traverse pitch totally switched it up! I love the exposure as I used the undercling on the slab and then stepped out to the good foot before getting to the ledge - it was soooo fun! As good as any climb I've done all over the world. Definitely a 4 start route. Though my toe was sore from the slab and small edging, it was totally worth it.
| Sitting on the ledge of P3 and having lunch.
Submitted By: Ming on May 14, 2012
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By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jun 17, 2012
| Was only able to lead the 1st pitch that day. Super fun!! Was lucky enough to time the hike early. Misty, cool and foggy morning!
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By Will P.
Nov 4, 2012
| Tons of bolts and super fun. P2 seemed the toughest. |
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