Lens Rock from near the base on the right side. R...
Lens Rock is a 1-2 pitch crag located between the Bookend
and the Citadel
. It consists of mostly easy to moderate trad lines and couple of stiffer mixed routes. This small crag does offer a variety of fun climbing - chimney, off-width, finger to fist cracks and some face climbing too. I wouldn't consider this crag to be a destination, but it is worth a stop off to get another line in for the day if you are in the general area.
Climbs that ascend the actual lens feature of Lens Rock have rap anchors at the top. Most other climbs use a walk/scramble off to the east in the gully between Lens Rock and the Bookend
. This walk off is not pleasant nor is it obvious. Work your way down a path of least resistance and be prepared for some 4th class scrambling/downclimbing.
Lens Rock is most easily accessed from other crags. Take the Black Canyon Trail to the Bookend
or to the Pear
. From the Bookend
: head west below the Bookend across the gully and you'll run into Lens Rock. From the Pear
: head up and east the descent gully on the east (right) side of the Pear
Lens Rock is easily identified by two features: its SE face that is shaped like a lens and a large balanced rock on its summit with crack lines running up to it.
Climbing Season For the Lumpy Ridge area.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lens Rock
The Frame 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: Lens Rock
Approach this route from the Bookend trail by walking past the Bookend then up the gully between it and Lens Rock, some scrambling encountered. The Frame is the prominent wide crack on the upper east face of Lens Rock. Grunt through a few offwidth moves on the lower half i.e. chicken wings/arm bars, then utilize face holds to stay out of the crack as the angle eases. Belay from bolts on top, a few feet left of the crack. Descend to the north then east dropping down easy slabs. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Lens Rock from near the base on the left side.
By Jim McGuire
Sep 16, 2003
Considering the dearth of easy-moderate climbs on Lumpy, I wouldn't discount Lens Rock as a destination. I have done it more than once, but then I'm a timid climber. And the descent isn't that bad, certainly a lot worse out there.