Lens Rock from near the base on the left side.
Lens Rock is a 1-2 pitch crag located between the Bookend
and the Citadel
. It consists of mostly easy to moderate trad lines and couple of stiffer mixed routes. This small crag does offer a variety of fun climbing - chimney, off-width, finger to fist cracks and some face climbing too. I wouldn't consider this crag to be a destination, but it is worth a stop off to get another line in for the day if you are in the general area.
Climbs that ascend the actual lens feature of Lens Rock have rap anchors at the top. Most other climbs use a walk/scramble off to the east in the gully between Lens Rock and the Bookend
. This walk off is not pleasant nor is it obvious. Work your way down a path of least resistance and be prepared for some 4th class scrambling/downclimbing.
Lens Rock is most easily accessed from other crags. Take the Black Canyon Trail to the Bookend
or to the Pear
. From the Bookend
: head west below the Bookend across the gully and you'll run into Lens Rock. From the Pear
: head up and east the descent gully on the east (right) side of the Pear
Lens Rock is easily identified by two features: its SE face that is shaped like a lens and a large balanced rock on its summit with crack lines running up to it.
Climbing Season For the Lumpy Ridge area.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lens Rock
Optic Nerve 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Lumpy Ridge
: Lens Rock
Optic Nerve is a fun but seldom-climbed route that goes right up the lens part of Lens Rock. Its X rating comes from the fact that the only pro is near the very bottom, and after that it's nothing but friction, crystals, and crimpers. A bolted anchor near the top makes it accessible to us top-roping mortals. However you choose to do it, start from an obvious tree about halfway between The Frame's offwidth and the obviously bolted Ellipse, and head up a flake which soon gives way to the blank fac...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Lens Rock from near the base on the right side. R...
By Jim McGuire
Sep 16, 2003
Considering the dearth of easy-moderate climbs on Lumpy, I wouldn't discount Lens Rock as a destination. I have done it more than once, but then I'm a timid climber. And the descent isn't that bad, certainly a lot worse out there.