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Kermits Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T,TR 
Cranial Prophylactic T 
Kermit's Direct Finish T 
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 
Kermit's Wad S,TR 
Lend Me a Dime S 
Lime Line Variation T 
Paranoia Streak T 
Punany S 
Revenge of the Nerds S 
Smitty's Wet Dream T 

Lend Me a Dime 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1989
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor teamís routes in the Cottonwoods. Although probably best considered a ďsport route,Ē it has much more adventure than your typical clip-up, requiring a blend of slab technique, creativity, and power. Rumor has it that some holds have broken off, particularly on the first pitch, which I donít doubt given what appears to be some of the remnants and a short section of dubious rock around the quasi-hanging belay. However, it still goes at ďeasyĒ 12, and if this is your standard and you havenít been on it, you just gotta do it. I bet there isnít another route like it in Utah.

(1) Relatively easy climbing protected by gear leads up to a rising traverse past five well-spaced bolts to the stance. The climbing gets increasingly challenging and trickier to figure out the closer you get to the small foot-stance that serves as the belay. Probably 12a, but Iíll go 12b given the mental calculus and zen-like balance needed to solve the crux. A short chain was added a few years ago to one of the bolts to make the clip easier, I think, but it also helps the logistics of bailing if the crux proves too much.

(2) Make a few moves up past a bolt and step around the corner to wild climbing protected by a few more bolts and outstanding exposure. Chains on top. If this pitch were off the ground, it likely would get more traffic that All Chalk. Probably a give-away 12a. This pitch also serves as the latter and much easier half of Agent Orange.

Location 

Start from the top of Smitty's Wet Dream.

Protection 

A few cams under 2Ē and a few wired nuts for the first 25 or so feet (easy), draws; single rope okay. Two raps to the ground, stopping at the anchors atop Revenge of the Nerds/All Chalk.


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By tenesmus
Jul 14, 2013

The crux for this is super cryptic for me. Go low, stay high? I couldn't figure it out. The second pitch is way more fun than All Chalk.

The first time I tried this there was a biner on a very bleached piece of webbing that was manufactured with stitches along the length of the sling. Getting up to clip that biner was crazy hard for me and when I grabbed the sling there was a nauseating tearing sound as it ripped in two. Fortunately, the stitches in the webbing held. They were all that held. Two threads. Nothing else. Getting a draw clipped into that bolt was kinda desperate just then.

I went back the next week and placed the chain that's on it now.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 16, 2013

"This has to be one of the best, if not the best, of the Contor-Taylor teamís routes in BCC."

you can take J.S. out of bcc, but you can't take the bcc out of J.S.
By John Steiger
Jul 16, 2013

I mix up left and right too. That happens in your sixth decade.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 23, 2013

I think you mean "the later half of Orange Crush."