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 ADVANCED
Red Rocks (Boulder)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
JAKS Crack T 
Lemons and Lime T,TR 
MB 81721 
NE Fin 2 
North fin arete 
SW fin 3 arete T 

Lemons and Lime 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Not I
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Detrick Snyder on Apr 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: P1 of Lemons and Lime: that's one gnarly squeeze!

Description 

If you're dying for a gnarly squeeze on some rough sandstone, this is your crack! One etched tally on the first chockstone is all the evidence of an ascent from who knows how long ago.

P1 (not that it requires a rope): this starts relatively tame (16") with surprisingly solid holds, but then as the first chockstone is neared, it shrinks down to 8". If it weren't for the chossy sandstone as it widens near the top chockstones, this route would receive another star, but as such, the jamming felt a little insecure up there.

P2: this is mostly 3rd class scrambling with one easy 5th move up another small crack that takes you to the top.

Location 

On the South side of SW Fin #2 lies a recessed, subtly flaring squeeze chimney with three visible chockstones about 30 feet up. On its East face lies a vertical, green stripe of lichen with yellow stripes on each side of it. The route I took (with a 29" waist) was on the inner side of the first chockstone, but for you wider folk, an exposed variation nearer the outside looks doable.

Protection 

A thick T-shirt and some tough pants. One could perhaps sling those chockstones, but why bother?


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By Detrick Snyder
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2013

Dunno how to rate chimneys very well, they're all climbable aren't they?