|The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
The first pitch had been done years ago but the second is quite stout, strenuous and a real battle to protect. The full route is called Lemon Bomb, 170 ft 5.11d. Start as for Red Zinger at the base of the deep left facing corner.
1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.
2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.
(Admin note: Apparently some sources incorrectly identify this route as "The A Crack," but the actual A Crack is really about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle.)
Single set of cams from #00 tcu to #4 camalot, rp's, wires, a really big cam (9 inches?) might make the flare on pitch 2 less bold.
Sep 22, 2005
I have heard of folks climbing the flare above Red Zinger, did you find any sign of passage above the roof?
Mar 26, 2009
this route is great. sliders might make you feel a bit better at the crux. i don't know about the big cam suggestion; it wouldn't fit at the crux where you need it, and the gear above (where it could fit), is good in the small sizes. this pitch also makes for a good warm-up for the .12b flare on atmospheres on the jet stream wall.