||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||JSt, EFR, Gier Hundal, Aliex Capdevila|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||46|
|Submitted By: ||Jimbo on Oct 10, 2010|
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Steep jugs leads to thin crux at the top. Great climbing all the way.
On Raven A. Hike down past Murray Wall. Raven A forms the second gully on the downhill side of Murray Wall. Boulder up, behind and onto a huge chock stone in the Gully. Both Layer Cake and Lemmon Meringue start off the chock stone. Lemmon Meringue is the right route.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 11, 2010
This climb is "bakerized" at the top. In other words the bolts were placed in a manner that discourages pulling on to the lower angle slab to the right and keeps you on the steeper face. Once you commit to the moves to clip the last bolt pulling on to the slab would be hard to do. If you pull on to the low angle face the entire route is 10+. Climbing the slab means you will not be clipping the last bolt which makes for a long run to the anchors. The forced finish has fun moves and leaves the OS,RP or flash in doubt to the anchors. Gotta love that.
Oct 12, 2010
True, it's like being forced to spell complicated names while you could just leave them out of the FA list.
Oct 15, 2010
Why, Aleix I don't know of what you speak.