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Sending the 2nd mini-roof on Lemmings
The route can be approached by climbing the first pitch of Calypso, Boulder Direct, Recon, etc... anything that takes you to the big ledge/ramp that leads down and south from the anchors atop of P1 of Calypso.
Just below the big alcove of the West Overhang is another system that climbs up and to a second roof. The route follows a large crack through the second roof where there is a small amount of poor rock.
The best way to do this route is to start on West Overhang, come through that roof, then step to the right and finish through the second roof (Lemmings) instead of on the easy crack/corner of the West Overhang. Done this way, the route gets a single * and is slightly better protected.
To descend, traverse left from the top of the route to the fixed rap anchors above Boulder Direct.
The route can be protected on a standard rack plus a big piece (#4 Camalot) near the crux.
The protection takes some creativity and is only satisfactory, not great. This should not be lead by a borderline 5.8 leader.
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Just over the roof...interesting gear here.
Over the first roof.
|By Mark J. Nelson|
Aug 31, 2001
Additional info, especially for when the Wind Tower is crowded:
- The "real" first pitch of Lemmings starts down and right from the end of the ledge where Recon starts. This is the longest, and in my opinion the nicest, way to the big ledge. Approach not from the Wind Tower trail; instead come up from the Streamside trail.
- There is a beautiful, improbable 5.6 line that goes up to the right of the West Overhang overhang. Follow the easily protected, thin crack to the right of West Overhang up to the corner, find a small, average-at-best nut placement in the least rotten part of the rock, then work up and feel around above you. If you're in the right place, it's 5.6 moves to pull you onto the face and work up to the crux crack.
Even in crowds, I've never seen queues for either pitch as described.
|By Steve Matthys|
Mar 27, 2003
Pulling the 2nd roof can be a little nerve racking if you dont have a cam to fit the wide crack, because you have to pull the roof with a fall that would not be very fun. pro is not that great, but throw on some screamers and they'll work.
|By Matthew Brejcha|
Mar 26, 2004
Be confident with the grade if you're leading, it'll be bold if 5.8 or .9 is your limit.Fun roof moves though.
|By Larry Shaw|
Jul 5, 2004
Thought the pro was good and the roof was fairly easy.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2008
I thought this was a fantastic fun route! The two overhangs were a blast and correctly rated at 5.8.
I agree with Mark, the best way to start this climb is from the bottom just to the right of Recon. Find a crack that goes up halfway and peters out just after a large fir tree. Hike up from the streamside trail and climb directly up. This way the whole route is a direct line. The pro is a little runout on P1 after the crack ends, but P1 isn't more than 5.6.
On P2 climb the overhang just right of the West Overhang (note the old pin in the West Overhang) by using the large horn and a very high step. See the Beta Photo (just over the overhang...) to see where you are supposed to go. Looks like the guy slung the horn. Both overhangs on this route are committing but have very good pro right where you need them. We did 2 additional pitches (very easy 5.4 or less) to put us on the summit.
|By Jason Shatek|
Aug 18, 2008
I thought this variation was great! It adds another few fun moves to west overhang. I thought it was more like a 5.7 roof though, It was pretty easy. Also, I used a nut and an orange Alien for pro through the crux. Don't take a #4, it's not necessary. Fun variation but only an extra move or two,
|By Mark Roth|
Jun 27, 2009
I protected the overhang with a couple bomber nuts....
You don't need a #4.
From: Loveland, Colorado
Mar 23, 2010
There's a perfect #0.5 Camalot placement inside the crack on the left. I found a #4 Camalot didn't fit well (too small). If you want more protection than the #0.5, then bring along a #5 Camalot. Added 20 March 2011. A #2 Bigbro is better than a #5 Camalot and can even be used on the first pitch. The first roof of the 2nd pitch can be climbed from the L or to the R. An advantage coming in from the L is being able to clip the piton on West Overhang. Use a double length runner to minimize rope drag.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2013
Short crux but fun moves while it lasts. Rock quality isn't the greatest, but we found pro at the crux to be perfectly fine. Partner got in a decent nut and a great #4, both at waist level when pulling the roof. Difficulty seemed about on par with West Overhang. Only 1 reachy move and then just haul yourself over on jugs.
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
Apr 28, 2013
Fun variation to West Overhang if there are parties on that route as there often are.