Lei Pi Shan Rock Climbing
One of the premier crags of Yangshuo, perhaps second only to White Mountain. Though Lei Pi has fewer routes, it boasts some of the best hard routes on some of the best stone, and in fact has relatively few moderates to warm up on. The uber-classic (and long) 14's Lightning and Thunder are found here, as well as a slew of top-quality 12s and 13s. Many folks head to Lei Pi to test their mettle on the hard test pieces they've heard about: Singularity, Thunder, Single Life to name a few.
Lei Pi Shan is well protected from the rain and is shady in the afternoon during the summer; it goes into the shade earlier later in the year. It stays dry even after other crags have seeped through -- but it will eventually seep through as well if the rain persists for a couple weeks.
Its location is (unfortunately) right next to the road, but the crag itself is stunning even if its location isn't as classic as other YS destinations. It can get quite crowded, though I've seen upwards of 40 people here, and everyone seemed to still be getting on routes despite there being a chord on almost every line. Obviously, there are other days when you'll have the crag to yourself.
This is one of the furthest cliffs from Yangshuo, about 10km south of the town near the village of Gao Tian. The easiest way to get there is to take one of the public buses to Gao Tian (should be 2.5 to 3 yuan/person) all the way past Moon Hill to where the bus makes its final stop in the village. From there, either keep walking the last km or so to the crag or catch one of the readily available moto-taxis for an additional 5 yuan or so.
Another good option is to ride your push bike or scooter - push bike is only about 40 minutes each way, and is a great way to warm up. From West Street, ride east and south through the road-cut, keeping right at the fork to the next big round about. Go straight on, going south past Wine Bottle, Banyan Tree, and Moon Hill. Another several km's will bring you to Gao Tian. Keep going for about another km.
The crag is on the right (west) side of the road, and will jump out at you as you approach it from the road. A short trail (all of 2 minutes of walking) will put you up the small hill to the base.
Climbing Season For the YangShuo area.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lei Pi Shan
Thunder 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Asia
: ... : Lei Pi Shan
'Thunder' is like 'lightning' in that it is a popular climb to the first set of anchors. The similarites stop there. Climbing to the first set of anchors is 12c. Start by negotiating your way up a blank looking slab that is not as blank as it appears. After a good rest fly through numerous crux-like sequences on super positive crimps. It is similar to climbing on postive jibs in a rock gym.Weasel your way up on a tufa after clipping the first anchor. Rest up here for some truely cryptic mov...[more] Browse More Classics in International