Todd Goss' guide book calls this a route to nowhere as there were about 5 drilled angles with no anchors. It is located between the routes "Living on the Edge" and "Aftershock" on the Aftershock wall. I replaced the drilled angles on pitch 1, added some bolts, and placed chain anchors. I also added 3 more pitches to take this route to the top. Pitch one has some manufactured holds in the seam/shallow right facing corner from the Olevsky era which render it climbable. Not to dissuade you, this pitch is good and still plenty challenging. The pitches are as follows:
P1: 5.11d, 80 ft - Short slab section to right facing flake which becomes a seam in a shallow right facing corner. Layback to a mantle gaining the chains.
P2: 5.11c, 85 ft - Step down and left for a short traverse. Delicate edging gives way to a gently overhanging section. After the buldge finish with some mantling and a short slab exit to the chains. Awesome pitch.
P3: 5.5, 40 ft - A means to reaching pitch 4. Slab climbing which trends right to the anchors at the bottom of pitch 4. Still enough to keep you mentally engaged due to the exposure.
P4: 5.11c, 80 ft - Delicate edging climbs into and out of a scoop. Pull a buldge/roof with awesome exposure and finish on more edges. Another great pitch. Noticable from the ground by looking for a dark brown streak to the left of the last pitch of Aftershock.
It is the nature of this rock to break/evolve, so the grade is probably subjective and likewise prone to evolving. Any input is welcome.
Between Living on the Edge and Aftershock on the Aftershock wall. Look for a shallow arching right facing corner in black rock. Todd Goss' guide also lists this as a project. Rap the Route with a 70 meter rope.
15 Quickdraws should suffice. All anchors are chains. You can rap with a 70 meter rope from anywhere on the route. There are rap anchors 90 ft below the anchors at the top of pitch 3, as it would be incredibly difficult and scary to try and reverse the traverse on rappel. Don't try walking off the top. You'll get lost.
|By Bryan Teaters 1|
Apr 23, 2014
An awesome route! First pitch is an amazing climb through a difficult three move crux, maybe harder than the suggested rating or I just may be soft. Just expect some grunting on your onsight attempt as you figure out how to paste your feet on to the wall! second pitch is brilliantly bolted and makes for flat out fun climbing through sustained pockets and edges, right on with the rating. enjoy the exposure on the traverse! last pitch is everything one can ask for if your a sport climbing freak with an adventurous twist due to suspect rock.
a very well done route!!!
Apr 25, 2014
Thanks for posting Bryan. Glad you enjoyed it. Todd thought the first pitch was also a bit harder than 11c... It's quite subjective I think and I'm primarily a crack climber. To me this pitch climbs like a layback crack so perhaps it suits my strengths. Thanks again dude
|By Marius vanderMerwe|
From: Saint George, UT
Apr 26, 2014
Only tried the first pitch, but I agree, it felt harder than 11c. Maybe I just don't have the finger strength for laybacking on those small holds (and my feet were slipping off all the time too!) Great route.
Apr 26, 2014
Sounds like a consensus... I've changed the grade to reflect. Thanks for the feedback guys!