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Cactus Cliff
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Legend on the Fall 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Brett Pierce, November 2000
Page Views: 1,321
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

The Price is Right is n...

Description 

This was formerly known as The Price Is Right.

This is one of the best new lines on Cactus Cliff - I wavered a bit on whether it is 2 stars or 3. Comparing it to other 3 star lines like The French are Here, I finally decided on 2 stars - but it probably goes more like 2 and a half.

Start right of Puff Daddy on the left side of a prow. The climbing is great, with a very thin, crimpy, crux section down low (just believe), and a strange, desperate finish through awkward holds that finally relent to jugs.

There are good rests after the crux that will let you get it together before tackling the tricky finish.

It is hard for 12a but realistically not much harder than that.


Protection 

11 bolts.



Photos of Legend on the Fall Slideshow Add Photo
In the nice pockets above the lower crux, getting ready for the upper stout-er crux. <br />
In the nice pockets above the lower crux, getting ...
The lower crux.
The lower crux.
Comments on Legend on the Fall Add Comment
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By Brett Pierce
Oct 1, 2004

I bolted and redpointed this route. Bob D. happened to be there that day and I belayed him on a toprope burn of the route.

The correct name and and 1st ascent info is: Brett Pierce, Legend on the Fall.

By Rich Aschert
Aug 24, 2006
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

This is an excellent route with a very lean and technical first crux and a slightly runout second crux above the last bolt where you don't want to fall.

By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Nice going, Brett. We were on it yesterday and enjoyed it.

First crux was fun, thin, technical. Second crux was pretty hard. Rest before you get there. You'll need it.

By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

"Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!

By Dan Foster
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2013

Lower crux felt nearly impossible. Not sure if something broke on this route, because the movement seemed ridiculous.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 21, 2013

The "just believe" beta is pretty accurate for the lower crux. My partner gave me super key beta here - I wasn't thinking in that direction, and I would have never figured it out. Even then, it is a hard move for sure. If you are short, it will be a long reach. If you are tall, the foot positions are kind of awkward. It would be nice to set this as a problem in your garage so you could do it a few times and get it smoothed out.

I think the top runout borders on inappropriate for a rap bolted route. It is a pretty good stretch to the anchor, and the climbing is definitely not easy.