||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Brian Cabe, Steve Mock and Steve Brezovec 7/6/02|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||summer typical w/ dry rock|
|Page Views: ||842|
|Submitted By: ||Brian in SLC on Nov 22, 2009|
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A fun route on fairly good rock with some neat positions.
Pitch 1: locate a short face leading to a finger crack in a corner which then gives way to a fist crack through a short roof. Climb a chimney slot to a face and belay around 150 feet up the route. 5.8.
Pitch 2: Climb up a face to a ramp (5.8) to a thin crack with face moves. A fun, exacting 150 foot pitch leads to a shallow ledge.
Pitch 3: easy 5th and 4th class climbing leads to a neat shallow grassy ledge.
Pitch 4: A short pitch of 4th class climb trending slightly towards the large, dark chimney cleft leads to the top of the ridge.
Route is located to the right of the "Legacy" route (Legacy is on the north face starting right of the big eyebrow overhang) where the face/cirque bends back around to an eastern aspect. Route is just left of the big chimney cleft in the middle of the east face.
Start down and to the left of the aforementioned chimney in broken terrain aiming for a face to finger crack in a corner leading to a roof.
Descent: downclimb to the west then walk south down and around back to the road. May also be possible to cut through a notch back to the base of the route.
Standard rack including full set of nuts and cams to 4". No fixed gear, no anchors. I seem to dimly recall that we may have placed a pin or two as well.